And what followed - windy windy windy!!
We had a good night in the impressive Monastery, a simple but nourishing Pilgrim's Breakfast (lots of walkers (no not the crisps!) in the cafe and then we were off - into the stiff unrelenting
Westerly wind that tried to push us backwards all the way to Santiago.
I had recovered from my Gastro Intestinal ailments - but that was the only good news. We worked hard and had little to show for it - apart from Jonny's 100 Euro fine for cycling with earphones!! The Guardia Civil officer was polite but there was no mercy (even though the noise from the wind was so fierce that we could hardly hear what he was saying and the fine was given because earphones make it impossible to hear the traffic -  with or without we heard only the wind!!).
The landscape was boring - straight flat roads, empty villages, nothing but fellow travellers (on foot - "Buon Camino" as the greeting goes!).
We made it to our next lodging Albergue la Encina in Hospital de Orbigo - simple lodging but a great bar and big meals for very little money! 124 km  at av 16.6 km/hr (!!!) .
The following day the wind was even fiercer - and as there was a bus taking us westwards we decided that religious insanity was not for us - and we took the bus for the first 50 km and planned to do he last 40 on bikes ! But St James heard about this and after we had headed off on our bikes a thunderstorm made us revisit our options - and we arrived to our destination in Pedrafita by bus!
The following morning  (Thursday) was cold, wet and windy (what's new?) we climbed up to the summit at 1330 metres - it was 2*C!!! The scenery was now lush green hills and winding mountain roads. It looked like Scotland -  but was much colder!!!   We overtook some mountain bikers going up (on the road), and then there was along windy descent where you really had to concentrate to hold on to the handlebars. We were wet and cold (arm warmers, windbreakers but just shorts - all  wet!!!).
We had a rather lovely lunch - looking at the rain hitting our bikes horizontally!!!
To add to the joys of the day we got lost, did an 18 km detour, Jonny fell into the mud and we were shivering land cold when we arrived to Palas de Rei (Jonny got lost and arrived 30 mins after me but his mood improved when he saw the Burger and Beer waiting for  him!). We had done 114 km at 17 km/hr and climbed 1899 meters!!!. And we had fought for every one of them!!
On the last day of our Pilgrimage everything was still wet - a tumble dryer gave temporary relief, but the rain kept  coming and after 36 km we had reached our sod-this-pilgrimage threshold. From out table in a cafe we could see a taxi rank - and we arrived to Santiago in  style - although still soaked!!

SO was it horrible? Well it was b.... hard work. The bikes were great (the Airnimal folding road bikes, we had one pot-hole puncture but no mechanicals - and if the weather had not been so miserable. But we did 650 kms and we drank a lot of good beer - and enjoyed each others' company.  And Santiago had good food - and more very good beer so it was worth it all!!

Eroica and what followed

the Eroica ride took place in blistering sunshine , temp 32-34’.
We started off in a group at 09 (I was given a reprimand for not wearing a woolen top!! By someone eho clearly did not ride at sll and would not know a fixie if he saw one - which he clearly did!!) quickly did a wrong turn followed by corrective action and soon the peloton knew that it was “ Eat my dust Eddie” ( ref House of God) who were for the day. There were hills and hills and gravel and hills - 10% is ok , 12-13 I can just manage but 20%?? Come on!! In fact I believe that no-one did!!
The feed stations were a bit far between - one after 20 km snd one after 45 by which time I was chewing my chamois for a bit of sustenance!!
But we did it - we finished we got our medals and our beers!! A great experience on lots of Spanish gravel!!
In the afternoon we took the bus to Borges where we checked into posh hotel and went to explore the very charming town. Alas I allowed Jonathan to choose the eatery based on the beer menu - snd the calamari with mayo clearly contained a very potent laxative which kept me busy all night and most of the next day!
We had a late start (well I had several starts!) and arrived at our next rather grand destination in Carrion des Condes late and tired! The scenery en route wax not inspiring - snd our willingness to be impressed not improved by the stiff headwind - all day, and not s bush or a tree to seek shelter behind for 90 km. B.... hell!!
Today Tuesday the flags on the poles were again outstretched and the wind smack in our faces! It has been a depressing bloody hard relentless day. The landscape flat (apart from the uphills!!). We could keep speeds at 12-20 kmh - but av 16 kmh - depressing!! In places even having to stand  up to get the bike down an incline. Very few bars/cafes to raid - and of course the day had to finish w (horizontal!!) rain on the finishing stretch to Hospital de  Orbigo (very charming pilgrims’ hostel!!)
But what a day!! 125 km snd we worked hard for every one!!It took 10 hoyrsvto do the journey!!! St James - you will never get s Christmas card from us - snd as for candles - you can stick it where light is needed!! And as for us - a bus ride would be very

tempting!!!

Day 2 and the festival of st. Someone

Another glorious day - we took it easy and did only 75 km but entertained ourselves on gravel roads in preparation for the Eroica. We visited a rather impressive Eateria for lunch - Victor Oribe in Paganos. Arrived an hour early so Jonny thought we should do a little loop. Almost did not make it back thanks to +10% gravel in- and declines. However we had a spectacular 8-9 course sampler menu which made steering our steeds back down the mountain “interesting”. However neither animals nor bikes or humans were injured!
The Garmin insisted  that the 10 km highway route be turned into a 47 (!!!) km gravrl detour. We ignored it snd took thr highway home!
Back in San Asensio there was a festival snd every house had bern turned into a tapas and beer serving tabernacle. And who were we to disappoint them?? We rest our case and our rather weiry bodies!!

Rioja day 1

Super accommodation in San Asensio - small drawback is that although the town has plenty of bars the restaurant(s?) are only open weekends. The bayonne jambon from Biarritz plus other items were wolfed down and then it was B&T time (beer and tapas!)
Today we toured the region on our old steeds - it is stunningly beautiful, empty well maintained roads, vineyards everywhere, lots of hills with a few descents

(my max downhill fixie record  has been broken by myself - 56km/hr (approx 35 mph).feet going like a drum roll!
In one village the post woman was doing her morning round holding on to a crutch. Very impressed. I was even more impressed when we saw her in the bext village - turbo crutches? Or are we that slow?we had a very abstinent day  - lots of agua and a single small beer. Got lost several times and clocked up 120 km and 1300 metres of climbs - not bad for a fixie and a Raleigh Clubman!

Ouverture part 2

Leaving behind us the grey wet and somewhat Brexit’esque local climate we reach Portsmouth where the nice girl at check-in asks whether we are aware that the return journey has been cancelled as well? Nobody had told us - the Imaginary ferry will remain an illusion for the entire Summer!! Ferry watchers and spotters don’t waste your energy - go somewhere else. As for us the scenic route Caen - Logrono will treat us to its charms twice! But it does go through Bordeaux - I guess every cloud has a Rouge lining!
The sea was calm and we approached the Normandy beaches and were given a view not disimilar to the one faced by thousands of frightened but very brave young men 75 years ago. That must never happen again.
We debarked and drove to the Ace Hotel in Le Mans for a nights “peace” - the fire alarm went off at 0200 - some nicotine addict had tried to dismantle it in his/her/room!! Anyway a highly recommendable hotel with secure parking (useful with bikes on and in the car). And they have fully working fire alarms! And very pleasant staff.
Wednesday a long drive (J at the wheel) to the beautiful Basque country (Lord of the Rings-like scenery - stunning!). We did a pit stop in Biarritz - absolutely lovely - worth a very long week end!
Now safely in San Asensio - off for tapas and Rioja!!

Eroica Hispania Overture

Jonny and I are heading south although in a slightly torturous fashion. The ferry booked ages ago connecting the towns folk of Portsmouth with those of Santander has temporarily given up the ghost (better in harbour than on the  Bay of Biscay ( Cpt Aubrey’s rule No 1 - “beware of the lee shore”  springs to mind. It may of course also be that the ferry was one of Mr Grayling’s imaginary ferries - flying Dutchmen - that was planned to rescue the nation in case of No Deal but actually never existed! But the bill did!!!!
Anyway a 700 mile detour via Caen and Le Mans should still allow us to arrive at our destination San Asensio bear Logrono  from where we will explore Rioja wine region (now why does that not surprise you!!) and do the Eroica ride. The ride is part of the rides all over the world where nutters dressed in period garments cycle on vintage bikes on gravel roads over a distance of 40-100 miles. Why? you may ask. Eh, because...  Last year I did a similar ride in Holland with my Belgian friend Tom. I used my Mercian Fixie and if the locals suspected that Brexit was a sign of madness they had it confirmed when I scaled and descaled hills in my one and only gear. I did manage to fracture my elbow 5 km before the finish line but as Tom prescribed large doses of Belgian beet I was able to carry on through 🇧🇪 To Calais and on  to Canterbury.
This year the Mercian (1962) is still with me and Jonathan is using a 1950’s Raleigh Clubman - with 4 (!!!) gears!! Anyway that is not until Sunday and before that we plan to explore the secrets (?) of Rioja i.e. taste all the local beverages.! More to follow!!

Eroica Limburg June 2018

My sturdy 1962 Mercian (fixie with 46-16)got loaded up and via Harwich to the Hook I cycled to Rotterdam and then by train to Maastricht. A lovely city which I got yo know very well as my Garmin thought that repeated loops along cobbled lanes were much better than the direct route to Valkenberg where the Eroica ride was taking place. By following the sun I found my own way and arrived to find my Danish friend Allan along with Lasse - a couple of welcome drinks later we registered for the ride. The Eroica is a series of rides in various parts if the world. The requirement is pre 1970 bike, similar kit and unspecified age of rider - although most were “mature” . Lots of stalls selling vintage equipment were visited and patronage paid!
Early breakfast with arrival of my Belgian prev Registrar Tom whom I had conned into accompanying us. The implication of 80% non-tarmac’ed roads had not registered.  Lots of glorious bikes but only one fixie! A beautiful sunny day soon turned into a heatwaved dehydrating ordeal! Up and down gravel and sandy tracks - hardly any traction on the rearwheel which sent flints and dirt in all directions. Keeping upright was a challenge and not all achieved this. The course was well marked but the drink stops (juice or water) were far between (only 3 on the 105 km course)!! A brewery stop with non-alcoholic or low -OH beer towards the end helped but we were tired and thirsty. The last vlimb was Dead Man’s Hill (16%) which Tom almost managed on his Flandia but I saw noone else cycle! Five km from the finish I missed a large wooden boom and flew over the top. The bike was fortunatrly ridesble - bent front fork but wheel true - steel always wins the day!!! - and I finished with a rather painful elbow! Nothing to dampen our spirits and a great night was had!!!
Next day Allan and Lasse headed home to Denmark (will miss their great company!!!) and Tom and I to Antwerpen where his parents entertained us in great style. Tom 30+ years younger than me is a strong climber! The next day we paid Tom’s hospital a visit and an Xray showed haemarthrosis (blood in the joint) of my right elbow ie a head of radius fracture! Treatment? Keep moving, carry on and painkillers (perhaps in different order!).
So the next day I cycled to Bruxelles along cycle tracks- well laid out but occasionally rather bumpy which was b.... painful! Some shouts or swearing did accompany my progress! Cycling with one hand on the bars was not always easy as the right could not bend enough to allow me to drink (water!!) and could not hold on to the bars for long on its own!
I spent three nights in Bruxelles looked after by our wonderful French friends- we visited Ghent (lovely!) and the sights of Bruxelles (very pretty) and I had lunch with my old school friend, Louis. Also witnessed various WC football events on latge screens (and this continued at my next destnation , Ypres). I cycled there on the Thursday- 125 km - hard work!! A beautiful rebuilt town with the moving daily remembrance ceremony at the Menin gate. It was the 90th anniversary of the ceremony so much pomp was displayed on the Thursday . On the Friday I cycled to the Passchendale museum and the Tyne Cot cemetary - the largest Commonwealth war grave - sad sad sad!! The weather was still too hot to sightsee after 1500 hrs (all trip 30+* and dry dry dry). And my elbow was still rather (!!!) painful - it was ok when it was straight for a while but then very painful to bend it. And ok when bent for a while but then etc etc!!
After 2 days in Ypres bike ride to Calais and on (via some rather unpleasant hills) to Canterbury where a certain football match outcome forced the bars to close down serving just as I arrived - dry as a stick!! Anyway - spent the night at excellent local micro brewery, the Foundry. Made it safely back to the hotel avoiding drunken fans. Sunday morning service at the majestic Cathedral and then train back to Suffolk.
A great trip - would’ve been even greater without my stupid crash. I eas impressed that the tubeless Giant tyres came to no harm on the Eroic flints! The Mercian as always a delight (needs a bit repair when I get home - new front fork??). The B &B in Ypres (Het Houden Paard) excellent.
The Belgians charming hosts but interesting that in Belgium cyclists (and some drivers!!) ignore cyclists whereas in France all cyclists give a waive. Or is that just because they felt dorty for me - fixie and fracture on one bike?