And what followed - windy windy windy!!
We had a good night in the impressive Monastery, a simple but nourishing Pilgrim's Breakfast (lots of walkers (no not the crisps!) in the cafe and then we were off - into the stiff unrelenting
Westerly wind that tried to push us backwards all the way to Santiago.
I had recovered from my Gastro Intestinal ailments - but that was the only good news. We worked hard and had little to show for it - apart from Jonny's 100 Euro fine for cycling with earphones!! The Guardia Civil officer was polite but there was no mercy (even though the noise from the wind was so fierce that we could hardly hear what he was saying and the fine was given because earphones make it impossible to hear the traffic -  with or without we heard only the wind!!).
The landscape was boring - straight flat roads, empty villages, nothing but fellow travellers (on foot - "Buon Camino" as the greeting goes!).
We made it to our next lodging Albergue la Encina in Hospital de Orbigo - simple lodging but a great bar and big meals for very little money! 124 km  at av 16.6 km/hr (!!!) .
The following day the wind was even fiercer - and as there was a bus taking us westwards we decided that religious insanity was not for us - and we took the bus for the first 50 km and planned to do he last 40 on bikes ! But St James heard about this and after we had headed off on our bikes a thunderstorm made us revisit our options - and we arrived to our destination in Pedrafita by bus!
The following morning  (Thursday) was cold, wet and windy (what's new?) we climbed up to the summit at 1330 metres - it was 2*C!!! The scenery was now lush green hills and winding mountain roads. It looked like Scotland -  but was much colder!!!   We overtook some mountain bikers going up (on the road), and then there was along windy descent where you really had to concentrate to hold on to the handlebars. We were wet and cold (arm warmers, windbreakers but just shorts - all  wet!!!).
We had a rather lovely lunch - looking at the rain hitting our bikes horizontally!!!
To add to the joys of the day we got lost, did an 18 km detour, Jonny fell into the mud and we were shivering land cold when we arrived to Palas de Rei (Jonny got lost and arrived 30 mins after me but his mood improved when he saw the Burger and Beer waiting for  him!). We had done 114 km at 17 km/hr and climbed 1899 meters!!!. And we had fought for every one of them!!
On the last day of our Pilgrimage everything was still wet - a tumble dryer gave temporary relief, but the rain kept  coming and after 36 km we had reached our sod-this-pilgrimage threshold. From out table in a cafe we could see a taxi rank - and we arrived to Santiago in  style - although still soaked!!

SO was it horrible? Well it was b.... hard work. The bikes were great (the Airnimal folding road bikes, we had one pot-hole puncture but no mechanicals - and if the weather had not been so miserable. But we did 650 kms and we drank a lot of good beer - and enjoyed each others' company.  And Santiago had good food - and more very good beer so it was worth it all!!

Eroica and what followed

the Eroica ride took place in blistering sunshine , temp 32-34’.
We started off in a group at 09 (I was given a reprimand for not wearing a woolen top!! By someone eho clearly did not ride at sll and would not know a fixie if he saw one - which he clearly did!!) quickly did a wrong turn followed by corrective action and soon the peloton knew that it was “ Eat my dust Eddie” ( ref House of God) who were for the day. There were hills and hills and gravel and hills - 10% is ok , 12-13 I can just manage but 20%?? Come on!! In fact I believe that no-one did!!
The feed stations were a bit far between - one after 20 km snd one after 45 by which time I was chewing my chamois for a bit of sustenance!!
But we did it - we finished we got our medals and our beers!! A great experience on lots of Spanish gravel!!
In the afternoon we took the bus to Borges where we checked into posh hotel and went to explore the very charming town. Alas I allowed Jonathan to choose the eatery based on the beer menu - snd the calamari with mayo clearly contained a very potent laxative which kept me busy all night and most of the next day!
We had a late start (well I had several starts!) and arrived at our next rather grand destination in Carrion des Condes late and tired! The scenery en route wax not inspiring - snd our willingness to be impressed not improved by the stiff headwind - all day, and not s bush or a tree to seek shelter behind for 90 km. B.... hell!!
Today Tuesday the flags on the poles were again outstretched and the wind smack in our faces! It has been a depressing bloody hard relentless day. The landscape flat (apart from the uphills!!). We could keep speeds at 12-20 kmh - but av 16 kmh - depressing!! In places even having to stand  up to get the bike down an incline. Very few bars/cafes to raid - and of course the day had to finish w (horizontal!!) rain on the finishing stretch to Hospital de  Orbigo (very charming pilgrims’ hostel!!)
But what a day!! 125 km snd we worked hard for every one!!It took 10 hoyrsvto do the journey!!! St James - you will never get s Christmas card from us - snd as for candles - you can stick it where light is needed!! And as for us - a bus ride would be very

tempting!!!

Day 2 and the festival of st. Someone

Another glorious day - we took it easy and did only 75 km but entertained ourselves on gravel roads in preparation for the Eroica. We visited a rather impressive Eateria for lunch - Victor Oribe in Paganos. Arrived an hour early so Jonny thought we should do a little loop. Almost did not make it back thanks to +10% gravel in- and declines. However we had a spectacular 8-9 course sampler menu which made steering our steeds back down the mountain “interesting”. However neither animals nor bikes or humans were injured!
The Garmin insisted  that the 10 km highway route be turned into a 47 (!!!) km gravrl detour. We ignored it snd took thr highway home!
Back in San Asensio there was a festival snd every house had bern turned into a tapas and beer serving tabernacle. And who were we to disappoint them?? We rest our case and our rather weiry bodies!!

Rioja day 1

Super accommodation in San Asensio - small drawback is that although the town has plenty of bars the restaurant(s?) are only open weekends. The bayonne jambon from Biarritz plus other items were wolfed down and then it was B&T time (beer and tapas!)
Today we toured the region on our old steeds - it is stunningly beautiful, empty well maintained roads, vineyards everywhere, lots of hills with a few descents

(my max downhill fixie record  has been broken by myself - 56km/hr (approx 35 mph).feet going like a drum roll!
In one village the post woman was doing her morning round holding on to a crutch. Very impressed. I was even more impressed when we saw her in the bext village - turbo crutches? Or are we that slow?we had a very abstinent day  - lots of agua and a single small beer. Got lost several times and clocked up 120 km and 1300 metres of climbs - not bad for a fixie and a Raleigh Clubman!

Ouverture part 2

Leaving behind us the grey wet and somewhat Brexit’esque local climate we reach Portsmouth where the nice girl at check-in asks whether we are aware that the return journey has been cancelled as well? Nobody had told us - the Imaginary ferry will remain an illusion for the entire Summer!! Ferry watchers and spotters don’t waste your energy - go somewhere else. As for us the scenic route Caen - Logrono will treat us to its charms twice! But it does go through Bordeaux - I guess every cloud has a Rouge lining!
The sea was calm and we approached the Normandy beaches and were given a view not disimilar to the one faced by thousands of frightened but very brave young men 75 years ago. That must never happen again.
We debarked and drove to the Ace Hotel in Le Mans for a nights “peace” - the fire alarm went off at 0200 - some nicotine addict had tried to dismantle it in his/her/room!! Anyway a highly recommendable hotel with secure parking (useful with bikes on and in the car). And they have fully working fire alarms! And very pleasant staff.
Wednesday a long drive (J at the wheel) to the beautiful Basque country (Lord of the Rings-like scenery - stunning!). We did a pit stop in Biarritz - absolutely lovely - worth a very long week end!
Now safely in San Asensio - off for tapas and Rioja!!

Eroica Hispania Overture

Jonny and I are heading south although in a slightly torturous fashion. The ferry booked ages ago connecting the towns folk of Portsmouth with those of Santander has temporarily given up the ghost (better in harbour than on the  Bay of Biscay ( Cpt Aubrey’s rule No 1 - “beware of the lee shore”  springs to mind. It may of course also be that the ferry was one of Mr Grayling’s imaginary ferries - flying Dutchmen - that was planned to rescue the nation in case of No Deal but actually never existed! But the bill did!!!!
Anyway a 700 mile detour via Caen and Le Mans should still allow us to arrive at our destination San Asensio bear Logrono  from where we will explore Rioja wine region (now why does that not surprise you!!) and do the Eroica ride. The ride is part of the rides all over the world where nutters dressed in period garments cycle on vintage bikes on gravel roads over a distance of 40-100 miles. Why? you may ask. Eh, because...  Last year I did a similar ride in Holland with my Belgian friend Tom. I used my Mercian Fixie and if the locals suspected that Brexit was a sign of madness they had it confirmed when I scaled and descaled hills in my one and only gear. I did manage to fracture my elbow 5 km before the finish line but as Tom prescribed large doses of Belgian beet I was able to carry on through 🇧🇪 To Calais and on  to Canterbury.
This year the Mercian (1962) is still with me and Jonathan is using a 1950’s Raleigh Clubman - with 4 (!!!) gears!! Anyway that is not until Sunday and before that we plan to explore the secrets (?) of Rioja i.e. taste all the local beverages.! More to follow!!

Eroica Limburg June 2018

My sturdy 1962 Mercian (fixie with 46-16)got loaded up and via Harwich to the Hook I cycled to Rotterdam and then by train to Maastricht. A lovely city which I got yo know very well as my Garmin thought that repeated loops along cobbled lanes were much better than the direct route to Valkenberg where the Eroica ride was taking place. By following the sun I found my own way and arrived to find my Danish friend Allan along with Lasse - a couple of welcome drinks later we registered for the ride. The Eroica is a series of rides in various parts if the world. The requirement is pre 1970 bike, similar kit and unspecified age of rider - although most were “mature” . Lots of stalls selling vintage equipment were visited and patronage paid!
Early breakfast with arrival of my Belgian prev Registrar Tom whom I had conned into accompanying us. The implication of 80% non-tarmac’ed roads had not registered.  Lots of glorious bikes but only one fixie! A beautiful sunny day soon turned into a heatwaved dehydrating ordeal! Up and down gravel and sandy tracks - hardly any traction on the rearwheel which sent flints and dirt in all directions. Keeping upright was a challenge and not all achieved this. The course was well marked but the drink stops (juice or water) were far between (only 3 on the 105 km course)!! A brewery stop with non-alcoholic or low -OH beer towards the end helped but we were tired and thirsty. The last vlimb was Dead Man’s Hill (16%) which Tom almost managed on his Flandia but I saw noone else cycle! Five km from the finish I missed a large wooden boom and flew over the top. The bike was fortunatrly ridesble - bent front fork but wheel true - steel always wins the day!!! - and I finished with a rather painful elbow! Nothing to dampen our spirits and a great night was had!!!
Next day Allan and Lasse headed home to Denmark (will miss their great company!!!) and Tom and I to Antwerpen where his parents entertained us in great style. Tom 30+ years younger than me is a strong climber! The next day we paid Tom’s hospital a visit and an Xray showed haemarthrosis (blood in the joint) of my right elbow ie a head of radius fracture! Treatment? Keep moving, carry on and painkillers (perhaps in different order!).
So the next day I cycled to Bruxelles along cycle tracks- well laid out but occasionally rather bumpy which was b.... painful! Some shouts or swearing did accompany my progress! Cycling with one hand on the bars was not always easy as the right could not bend enough to allow me to drink (water!!) and could not hold on to the bars for long on its own!
I spent three nights in Bruxelles looked after by our wonderful French friends- we visited Ghent (lovely!) and the sights of Bruxelles (very pretty) and I had lunch with my old school friend, Louis. Also witnessed various WC football events on latge screens (and this continued at my next destnation , Ypres). I cycled there on the Thursday- 125 km - hard work!! A beautiful rebuilt town with the moving daily remembrance ceremony at the Menin gate. It was the 90th anniversary of the ceremony so much pomp was displayed on the Thursday . On the Friday I cycled to the Passchendale museum and the Tyne Cot cemetary - the largest Commonwealth war grave - sad sad sad!! The weather was still too hot to sightsee after 1500 hrs (all trip 30+* and dry dry dry). And my elbow was still rather (!!!) painful - it was ok when it was straight for a while but then very painful to bend it. And ok when bent for a while but then etc etc!!
After 2 days in Ypres bike ride to Calais and on (via some rather unpleasant hills) to Canterbury where a certain football match outcome forced the bars to close down serving just as I arrived - dry as a stick!! Anyway - spent the night at excellent local micro brewery, the Foundry. Made it safely back to the hotel avoiding drunken fans. Sunday morning service at the majestic Cathedral and then train back to Suffolk.
A great trip - would’ve been even greater without my stupid crash. I eas impressed that the tubeless Giant tyres came to no harm on the Eroic flints! The Mercian as always a delight (needs a bit repair when I get home - new front fork??). The B &B in Ypres (Het Houden Paard) excellent.
The Belgians charming hosts but interesting that in Belgium cyclists (and some drivers!!) ignore cyclists whereas in France all cyclists give a waive. Or is that just because they felt dorty for me - fixie and fracture on one bike?

C to P final day and the one after

we left Perth in glorious sunshine and that stayed with us all the way to Pitlochry - well only 50 or so km. We followed the Tay along an excellent cyclepath until it suddenly disappeared - which what often happens with cycle facilities! So instead of gently rolling upstream  we again had to go up and down hills. Anyway the scenery was lovely and traffic was light - were they all at home watching the royal wedding? I hope not - it would be a waste of a lovely day!!
We stopped for coffee in Dunkeld - a wee village with an enormous cathedral and even bigger scones and slices of cake!! From there it was fairly flat till we reached our destination, Pitlochry where cyclists were gathering for the Etape de Caledonia. It is a large closed-roads event with 5000+ riders, unfortunately many of them with more testosterone than brains. I had decided not to tempt fate and ride but was talked into a compromise. I therefore got up at 0600, applied the usual ointments and potions, lycra etc (it was a cold morning with wet roads) and off I went to do the  short route of 40 miles. My decision was confirmed when I saw 3 crashed bikes and an ambulance within 5 km of the start!! The rest of the morning was relatively uneventful - a surprisingly big number of lycra dressed walkers were walking their bikes along the roads!!  I finished unscathed. Tomorrow the bike and I will travel by train to Suffolk. For a bit of rest!!
So was it worth it (the pain, exhaustion, sleepless nights etc)? It certainly was - it was the best 60% of LEJOG and done in glorious weather. The Airnimal bike behaved excellently and the company was great.  But it is interesting how long inclines are not so tiring - you know they will be followed by (normally equally) long descents. It is the short sharp hills that wear you out. You get nothing for your effort - but another hill around the corner. Just the ssme as head-wind. And when you have both - grrrrr. But it was a great great trip and can be much recommended!!

C to P day 6 - Moffat to Perth

We knew that we were in for a challenge when every Scot asking about today’s route said “oh, that’s a long uphill way”
Anyway we left our very pleasant B&B after breakfast with Haggis and the return of our laundered cycling kit - the only place we had this super service. A long 11 km climb along a green lovely valley in the morning sun took us up to Devil’s Thumbprint at the top, past the source of the River Tweed ( may have added to it myself!) and a 21 km great descent - watching the river swell to a decent stream. We stopped for coffee at Laurel Bank (I guess Hardy failed) and then pressed on via La Mancha (the man was out, presumably chasing windmills) and getting to the busy suburbs of Edinburgh. We passed through Fairmilehead where I used to work at the Princess Marg Rose Orthop Hosp just actoss from Hill End Skislope that provided us with do many injured thumbs! We circled the city and reached Forth Road Bridge (the old new bridge) which we had almost to ourselves. Spectacular views of the old railway bridge. Stopped for rolls and coffee on the norh shore - and what we thought was a flat’ish ride to Perth was rather up up and very little down. Most of the rides were on cycle lanes/tracks, rather gritty and bumpy - our tyres showed great resistance to all assaults from flints and sharps. Rehydration in Kinross ( irn Bru - 24 g of sugar per bottle!!!must be sponsored by Scottish dentists and Danish insulin producers!). We arrived in Perth at around 18 hrs after a long hard day- 155 km and a lot of climbing. A great Nepalese meal (Robin is an expert having visited that country 15 or so times) awaited us - and a couple of beers. Tomorrow will be a dhort 50’ish km ride to Pitlochry. I'm not sure that I’ll do the Etape - having just done close to 500 miles the thought of racing along with nutters who have never ridden in a peleton does not really appeal to me. Closed road races attract a strange dangerous crowd. I think that I have achieved what I wanted to by getting there on two wheels!

Cheltenham - Pitlochry day 5

our evening in Keswick did fortunately allow us yo sample a few of the local beverages - one must be very careful not to upset the local craftsmen!! We also feasted on a banquet of Thai food - and beer but don’t tell the aforementioned craftsmen!
As usual up early and iff ince a flat tyre gad been mended. The ride out of Keswick started gently but soon the gradients reached 20% in places - but hey ho I have by now built up my Haemoglobin level and we can manage - perhaps not in style!! We werebovertaken by a luggage-less rider but caught him when he was recovering at the top!! Miles upon miles through barren moorland. Then descent to Carlisle (not a very pretty place!!) loaded up with coffee cakes snd scones. We crossed the border with Scotland at Gretna Green, cycled past Lockerbie- even after almost 40 years its name  has a ring like Mordor or Mount Doom - not pleasant associations. We followed the main road - nothing scenic - potholes, grit, broken glass and sheep (some if them nice!!) etc but made it intact to Moffat - a rather nice town where we will prepare for tomorrow’s mega Etape to Perth - it is going to be a wee or maybe even a big challenge. We must drink to that tonight!!!

Cheltenham to Pitlochry day 4(? Loosing track!)

Our day stared with the usual massive breakfast - although I did decline the local sausages. Not for dietary or religious reasons but mainly because a tough day had dawned before we did.
Just outside the drive to our B & B a 16% incline welcomed us - with a stiff headwind and temp of 6’.
And from then on it was up up up. In spite of arm- and leg warmers it was not exactly warm! And I did not miss the taste if sausages as I was puffing up 14-16% ascents! We went through Slaidburn and Wray ( never heard if them? Me neither!) and Hornby - pretty castle! By the the temperature had reached double figures (plus!!) and we even had an hour of tailwind!!! Very strange to hear the sound of rubber against tarmac again - till then it had been muffled by wind noises!
We had lunch in Kendal - not a mint cake in site but excellent bacon and chicken salad - and a plum porter - yummy!!! From there on to Windermere (should be Headwindermere), Grassmere, Ambleside- stunningly beautiful!! The roads were congested and we tried our luck with lakeside tracks - a mixture of gravel, boulders and something even bigger. Amazing that our tyres survived - and we too! One final climb took us to Keswick where we after the usual routine of first washing lycra, then  ourselves and first then sampling local beer. We feasted on an excellent Thai 3-course  menu - because we are worth it - 110’ish kilometers with 1600 metres up. A hard but lovely day. Tomorrow we will reach Scotland - goodby bitters - hallo 80 Shilling!!!

Chrltenham - Pitlochry 2018 prologue

Cheltenham to Pitlochry
My friend Robin suggsted a gentle west coast ride to Pitlochry - yes it is on the map of Scotland about 50 km north of Perth. The annual Etape Caledonia takes place there - a charity ride of about 90 miles up and down (more up than down to my recollection) the lumpy terrain. I did it some years ago - once the frostbite suffered at the startline had settled it was a great ride. So here I go again - a sucker for punishment (Climbs and Punishment as Dostoyevsky  called it had he only had a bike).
My start is gentle - a cross country train journey from B St E via Ely and Birmingham to Celtenham. The bike is in the shoulder bag - my folding Airnimal as I will be train’ing it home from Pitlochry - and British trains aren’t exactly over accommodating when it comes to bikes on trains- ans there might be a few others trying to get away from Pitlochry after the ride (5-10000 participants?) . The Airnimal has road bike feel but can carry luggage (7.5 kg is what I have, cold westher gear incl.)  - but with 520 mm wheels the potholes will look huge!!
An uneventful passage followed by a highly protein nutritional evening meal (with an excellent Rioja)- yes I think we are ready for tomorrow - Houston we can start the count down!!!

Cheltenhamto Pilochry day 3

We left Premier Inn after an adequate breakfast - not dissimilar to the evening meal but instead of non decript beer we had ditto coffee. We headed out into the Manchester rush hour but fortunately Robin had detected a towpath which we could follow for 5-6 miles missing motorway crossings and similar tourist sights. Instead we had narrow boats and wild life - lovely. We headed into the wind - as always- via Warrington and Leigh (coffee and very fruity scone stop - must be several of the 5-a-day !!). We had lunch in “scenic” Blackburn - a place that has a Wilco on the main street must have problems!! - but the cafe and waitress were lovely. As the wind became slightly more westerly we followed it over moorland and hills hills hills. Some of them rather challenging - espec into the wind!!! We arrived at our farmhouse destination in Slaidburn - one of the best places in the UK to do star gazing - just as the clouds were building up. No Milky Way tonight - but hopefully a beer or two will make up for it.  The sun has been out for most of the day and it has been a great but hard day - only 96 km but 1000 metres of ups - and the wind!!!! And tomorrow it will strengthen!!!! Why oh why oh .....

Cheltenham to Pitlochry day 1-2
I took the train to Cheltenham - no problem with a carry-on bike but if you bring a standard one - not easy. You can only book a bike ticket if you have your own ticket. And once you’ve booked your own you may realise that there are no bike spaces left (only 3-4 per train!!!). No wonder we are leaving Europe -  they will probably help us pack.
Sunday morning Robin and I headed off towards Ledbury, Leominster and Ludlow - after a flat start (and yes I did get a pinch puncture on a cattle grid we hit the hills - or they hit us!! It was as challenging as Devon and Cornwall. A bit of advice - do not donate blood the day before you go on a long ride! It may save you some weight but it removes a couple of cylinders from your engine!!!
Anyway on a diet of cake and biscuits and sandwiches (no beer - the second mistake!!). we made it to Bishop’s Castle somewhere on the top of a very steep hill!!! Had a lovely room, great food (3 courses were wolfed down accompanied by a couple of 🍺. Followed by a tendition of Silent Night!!
Today we continued through hilly Shropshire but it all became more civilised in Chesshire - gentle inclines - very few declines to my recollection - still sunshine but as always when I’m in these parts a headwind!! Great pub lunch on route after coffees in lovely Shrewsbury. And after some rather congested peri- Mancurisn roads (probsly all hoing to the Man City parade) we made it yto our abode for the night. In total 250 km done with 2300 metres up - and down!!
But in all - spectacular scenery, lovrly matket towns - espec Ludlow was beautiful. If you haven’t been here - come - England at its best!!! But they do have pot holes here as well

Epiblog and Last day Bergamo to Lake Como

We had a leisurely start on the Saturday - the last ride of the trip. After yesterday's

 marathon event my body certainly felt that "enough is enough" and let us just go easy ( the tune that ran through my mind was Jackson Browne's "Running on Empty")
So again the usual ritual preparing for the ride and a large breakfast. Thereafter we all set off towards the lake  - a 30 km or so on mainly busy roads.. And suddenly -after a long descent there she was. Shimmering the sunlight from the (as always so far) blue sky., steep banks with  pretty villages clinging to the mountain sides. We stopped for coffee in Lecco and then continued to Varenna from where we took the ferry to Bellaggio . We were accompanied on the small ferry by a pristine MGA fresh from the Mille Miglia  classic car race - yes there was a time when cars were as pretty as bicycles.
Once on shore the road led us "up, up and away" ( but no beautiful balloon to assist) to Vignola with its chapel decorated with bikes. The rest of the group continued inland but I was suffering from conjunctivitis (sunlight, road dust, hay fever) and decided to return down  to the lake for a large ice cream and a boat ride along the lake visiting multiple little picturesque villages Long the shore. It was by now late afternoon, the sun was setting, the church bells chiming and calling for evening mass and the  world ( including my legs and back side) appeared to be at peace.
What a lovely way  finish to approx. 2000 km of riding from the bottom to the top of Italy. A beautiful country populated by lovely people. Yes there had been lots of ups and downs (about 20 km of ups I think , but not counted them yet)  but it had been a fantastic experience.  But in 40* heat? If anyone is mad enough to consider doing this may I suggest late April or May, take 3 (or more) weeks and do stop to smell the roses, taste the regional food and wine. The "slow food " movement was pioneered in Italy. Slow food and  slow cycling will certainly be more enjoyable.
On Saturday evening  we had a lovely meal in a beautiful lakeside restaurant in Torno, watching the lights flicker from the opposite shore as darkness set on the lake.
It was a steaming hot evening and after dinner the van was for the  final time loaded with all our goods I decided to sleep on the balcony overlooking the lake hoping for a gentle cool breeze. Three hours later thunder awoke me, followed by torrential rain, lightning and gusts of gale force winds! At least it cleared the air - and also the balcony: towels went flying lake-wards whilst the mattress and I sought shelter indoors. The weather forecast for the whole of next week is rain and lightning so it seems as if "someone" thinks we have done enough and suggests that we can go home.

The Road goes ever on and on
Out from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the road has gone,
Let others follow it who can!
Let them a journey new begin,
But I at last with weary feet
Will turn towards the lighted inn,
My evening-rest and sleep to meet.

(JRR Tolkien, The Return of the King)

Day 13 Modena to Bergamo

Modena (emphasis on the first syllable "Mo") was steaming hot and we could only manage to walk to the Pizzeria across the street - but fortunately the pizzi were excellent and the beer cold.
This morning we had a few deserters - Jack turned 40 so he and his brother Simon and Neil (of balloon and refugee-saviour fame) went on a non-bike adventure leaving a gang of seven (the Magnificent Seven or the Seven Dwarfs?) to head off on the longest day of them all - 214 km to Bergamo - fortunately the terrain is flat, unfortunately the temp. was 38-40 and yes there was  headwind all the way. We worked part of the route as a "chain-gang" constantly rotating to keep the speed as high as we could (around 30 km or 20 mph) - the one in front has to exert 30% or so more energy than the next one. But we had to stop for rehydration every hour or so - even icecold water in the bottles on the bike got so warm within 20 minutes that it was tempting to put a tea-bag in the bottle as well. And pouring the bottle over me to cool down was like having a warm shower. The first part of the day was pleasant - riding along little vineyards on small quiet roads, but the last bit was heavy traffic and not scenic. We stopped for a photo at the Bianchi bike factory although not all shared Michael's enthusiasm.

Towards the end of the ride D who shall otherwise remain anonymous sprinted off to get to a drinking hole. If he had been one of the dwarves he would most certainly have been known as Thirsty - and he had a rendezvous with another fairytale character  - probably Peroniocchio.
The rest of us arrived after 10 hours en route. After the usual preparations we convened in a steak house near the hotel where to  my great fortune  the first fillet of beef was too well done so they brought me a second, rare. As I managed to eat most of the first one whilst waiting for the second I think I had my protein ration for the day - but I must apologise  for the impact on Global Warming - two steaks on a day is not on (however the only beef I've had for the last two weeks so mYbe I am forgiven?).
Tomorrow 40-50 km to Lake Como, visit the chapel dedicated to cyclists , pack the bikes into the van  and prepare for the trip home. Almost there!!!!!