This morning Jonathan and I were released from prison having served our 16 hours and promised to redeem and generally improve from now on. The chorus from A certain Ludwig van Beethoven's opera sprang to mind (vide supra) as we emerged on the cathedral square.
But first back to yesterday : we joined Darren for a town walk with the Night Watchman ; an institution that had paced the streets of Ribe at night until 1902. It was an extremely entertaining and educational tour with information about the old city going back to approx year 800. The locL court in Ribe used to meter out much harsher sentences than the Law of the Land required - death penalty for stealing or selling counterfeit products (pre EBay). "Give thanks, my son, that you were not judged at Ribe Court" the old hag shouted at her son as he was dangling from the gallows in neighbouring city of Varde!
Unfortunately we hD to cut the tour short as we had a table booked at a local retaurant, Kolvig, overlooking the river and small harbour. The food was superb (smokesd salmon served and thin slices of apple soaked with lime, goose breast seasoned with coriander and something else (sorry) , and a french cheese that had been rolled in volcanic ashes served with something else which I cannot quite recall. And with this we had some beautiful beers from the micro brewery on Mandø, the first flavoured with every imaginable flower and weed from the island and the next sweet and dark.
The waitress , by the way, a delight!
We found our way back to cell 6 In the prison and had a peaceful night.
This morning I accompanied Jonathan on a car journey to Germany to do some border shopping. And - meanwhile at the back of the bus - Darren discovered that he had three broken spokes - should have stayed in prison he should , much safer there. So whilst we returned successfully from our border raid D had his bike fixed for the last leg to Esbjerg. Jonny headed back to Aalborg where he will be working in a boat year for next 3 months with some very good and dear friends - very good to see the young man it wS.
D and I arrived to Esbjerg to board the ferry back to the UK
And whilst you await the last chapter of this epistle do remember that justgiving.com has my name on its pages in support of St. nicholas Hospice. Just give it a thought please.
The plan was to attach a number of shots but energy is running low - the batteries not the legs, they can go on forever - so please remain patient until tomorrow!
Friday, 5 September 2014
Thursday, 4 September 2014
The end is nigh - and what an end!
A short cycling day - only about 35 miles but let's start at the beginning.
Yesterday evening took me to the Kro (ie the inn) in Havneby on Rømø. Calling it a "by"/ town is a bit of an exaggeration but it had what keeps a cyclist going : good food (fried Dover Sole with new potatoes and prasley and melted butter : absolutely phantasyic!), good beer brewd for the pub itself - I first had an excellent Liquorice Stout followed by "the Jubilee Ale of the Rømø Lass" featuring the inkeeper'ess on the label, all served by the lovely Ragnhild who effortless mastered three languages, a busy restaurant and kept a smile on her pretty face (probably thinking of her soon to start gap year adventures before starting studying bio-sciences - no lifetime waitressing there!).
We woke up to a misty morning without a wind. Post breakfast we loaded up, and so did the wind, and by the time we reached the 10 kilometer dike all flags were stretched out and the flagpoles looked like fishbones. The tail wind from yesterday which hd helped us to go at 22
-24 mph now only allowed us around 14 - 15 mph which we could keep up thanks to a very short chain-gang of which Team Sky would be envious - "we know exactly where you went wrong - poor technique and no panniers!!!.
We jeaded north (the wind fortunately did not!) , visited some lovely parish churches - espec.the one at Brøns was an absolute delight with its murals
showing a certain a certain George and his dragon wife- did he really win?
We also saw a memorial to 20 or so men killed in WW1 (" dying for a cause which was not theirs" ) - this part of Denmark was lost to the Germans in the 1860s thanks to a certain Prussian Herr Bismarck, and was not returned to Denmark until 1920 after a certain war where the Germans this time came second. So these poor farm boys had been conscripted to the German army. And how many are still being killed for causes that are not their own. I hope that you do not sleep well at night, Mr Blair.
Onwards to the jewell in the crown, the oldest town in Scandinavia, the home of a most magnificent cathedral (started around year 800) , the prettiest small city in Europe (that is official!) and twinned with Ely (apart from the Ely Cathedral not very pretty) : Ribe (pronounced Reeebe). Hundreds of picture perfect 17-19th Century houses, cobbled streets, a small harbour (although 10 miles from the sea) and the aforementioned heavenly Cathdral.
After a great lunch with loads of Herring and a single beer from the local brewhouse, I checked into the prison where Jonathan and I will spend the night in cell 6 (i have checked the door can be opened from both sides) . My travelling companion (the solicitor) is petrified of sleeping in a prison (something in his past I wonder??) and will reside elsewhere (in an old leper colony?).
I visited a "curiosity-type" wine/beer/coffee/tea/sweets shop where the till looked as if it only took Viking currency. It took me 30 minutes to buy a couple of beers even though I was the only customer as the owner and I got talking, and talking and talking. A shame that he does not open until 1430 tomorrow (very civilized working hours 1430-1730) as I would love to go back.
The afternoon was spent on the Cathedral square listening to an outdoor brass concert featuring Richard Srauss and the local composer, Rud Langaard, and enjoying a small beverage.
A table has been booked for tonight at one of the towns many excellent eateries overlooking the river and I very much expect a great finale prior to the last wee ride to the ferry tomorrow.
Yesterday evening took me to the Kro (ie the inn) in Havneby on Rømø. Calling it a "by"/ town is a bit of an exaggeration but it had what keeps a cyclist going : good food (fried Dover Sole with new potatoes and prasley and melted butter : absolutely phantasyic!), good beer brewd for the pub itself - I first had an excellent Liquorice Stout followed by "the Jubilee Ale of the Rømø Lass" featuring the inkeeper'ess on the label, all served by the lovely Ragnhild who effortless mastered three languages, a busy restaurant and kept a smile on her pretty face (probably thinking of her soon to start gap year adventures before starting studying bio-sciences - no lifetime waitressing there!).
We woke up to a misty morning without a wind. Post breakfast we loaded up, and so did the wind, and by the time we reached the 10 kilometer dike all flags were stretched out and the flagpoles looked like fishbones. The tail wind from yesterday which hd helped us to go at 22
-24 mph now only allowed us around 14 - 15 mph which we could keep up thanks to a very short chain-gang of which Team Sky would be envious - "we know exactly where you went wrong - poor technique and no panniers!!!.
We jeaded north (the wind fortunately did not!) , visited some lovely parish churches - espec.the one at Brøns was an absolute delight with its murals
showing a certain a certain George and his dragon wife- did he really win?
Onwards to the jewell in the crown, the oldest town in Scandinavia, the home of a most magnificent cathedral (started around year 800) , the prettiest small city in Europe (that is official!) and twinned with Ely (apart from the Ely Cathedral not very pretty) : Ribe (pronounced Reeebe). Hundreds of picture perfect 17-19th Century houses, cobbled streets, a small harbour (although 10 miles from the sea) and the aforementioned heavenly Cathdral.
After a great lunch with loads of Herring and a single beer from the local brewhouse, I checked into the prison where Jonathan and I will spend the night in cell 6 (i have checked the door can be opened from both sides) . My travelling companion (the solicitor) is petrified of sleeping in a prison (something in his past I wonder??) and will reside elsewhere (in an old leper colony?).
I visited a "curiosity-type" wine/beer/coffee/tea/sweets shop where the till looked as if it only took Viking currency. It took me 30 minutes to buy a couple of beers even though I was the only customer as the owner and I got talking, and talking and talking. A shame that he does not open until 1430 tomorrow (very civilized working hours 1430-1730) as I would love to go back.
The afternoon was spent on the Cathedral square listening to an outdoor brass concert featuring Richard Srauss and the local composer, Rud Langaard, and enjoying a small beverage.
A table has been booked for tonight at one of the towns many excellent eateries overlooking the river and I very much expect a great finale prior to the last wee ride to the ferry tomorrow.
Wednesday, 3 September 2014
Probably the best country in the world
We left Dagebüll this morning in glorious sunshine after another magnificent breakfast - and we really load up in the morning as we often skip lunch.
The wind was again mainly against us but the delights of Denmark were ahead so we sped on. The German country side was pleasant, not as many sheep as in Holland (and therefore fewer of those wretched gates you have to open and close), still masses of windturbines (i really do not see what the fuss is about: they are silent and aesthetically not displeasing. The only problem may be that they cost so much to build that the only one who makes money for the first 2030 hears is the manufacturer.
We passed through Niebühl where I had expected a statue of Carsten Niebühl who in 16-something as the first Westerner visited and described Arabia Felix. But there was none. But they had two bike shops!
And suddenly it was there, the Danish Frontier across which no German hand should set his foot(?) - but as usual there was nothing apart from some signs and supermarkets to mark it (72 cans of Danish lager for £15!!! No, we had no room!).
Suddenly the skies were even bluer and we hd a tailwind. We sped to Tønder were the Chieftains, Runtig, James Early had just been festivaling. We sped to the main street where we had a single bottle of local brewery, Kongens Bryghus, conveniently situated in Copenhagen only 200 miles away. We also admired the statue of the local night watch man with his cat-o-9tails, allegedly designed to scare off loose women and thieves. Must've worked, we saw none - and we looked pretty hard!
We detoured via Møgel Tønder where the second son to the Queen has his residence - a very pretty small town with an incredible amount of cobbles - ideal for a short Paris Roubaix time trial! - and an incredibly pretty church , richly decorated and not like the typical village church.
The wind had now changed to side and it was rather strong. However after 15 miles we turned a 90* corner and followed the 6 mile dike westwards to the island of Rømø , running before the wind at a speed of 22-24 mph - after a while the high cadence and the lack of free wheel does make it rather "claustrophobic" with almost an urge to get off the pedals but as there would be no chance of getting back on it was a matter of persevering and enjoying the ride. Which I certainly did.
We rode down the island , about 12-15 miles long where we had booked rooms at the Youth Hostel - they never even questioned our mature ways and demeanour.
The country side is charming, lovely thatched farmhouses and cottages, beautiful small white washed churches with red tiled roofs, the other residents clearly know that if you ride a red Mercian with a red chain you deserve respect , and t
Last but not least the beer slips down a treat - it ain't Bitter but after 65 miles it hits the spot. The accommodation is good, thatched cottages with small but comfortable rooms; no square dancing tonight.
Off to the "big" local town tonight for some fish and perhaps a beer!
And if any of you were to consider two wheeling in this part of the world I would suggest starting at Hamburg, and going North. Lovely, absolutely lovely!!! And at this time of year the toads and towns are blissfully quiet - till we arrived!
The wind was again mainly against us but the delights of Denmark were ahead so we sped on. The German country side was pleasant, not as many sheep as in Holland (and therefore fewer of those wretched gates you have to open and close), still masses of windturbines (i really do not see what the fuss is about: they are silent and aesthetically not displeasing. The only problem may be that they cost so much to build that the only one who makes money for the first 2030 hears is the manufacturer.
We passed through Niebühl where I had expected a statue of Carsten Niebühl who in 16-something as the first Westerner visited and described Arabia Felix. But there was none. But they had two bike shops!
And suddenly it was there, the Danish Frontier across which no German hand should set his foot(?) - but as usual there was nothing apart from some signs and supermarkets to mark it (72 cans of Danish lager for £15!!! No, we had no room!).
Suddenly the skies were even bluer and we hd a tailwind. We sped to Tønder were the Chieftains, Runtig, James Early had just been festivaling. We sped to the main street where we had a single bottle of local brewery, Kongens Bryghus, conveniently situated in Copenhagen only 200 miles away. We also admired the statue of the local night watch man with his cat-o-9tails, allegedly designed to scare off loose women and thieves. Must've worked, we saw none - and we looked pretty hard!
We detoured via Møgel Tønder where the second son to the Queen has his residence - a very pretty small town with an incredible amount of cobbles - ideal for a short Paris Roubaix time trial! - and an incredibly pretty church , richly decorated and not like the typical village church.
The wind had now changed to side and it was rather strong. However after 15 miles we turned a 90* corner and followed the 6 mile dike westwards to the island of Rømø , running before the wind at a speed of 22-24 mph - after a while the high cadence and the lack of free wheel does make it rather "claustrophobic" with almost an urge to get off the pedals but as there would be no chance of getting back on it was a matter of persevering and enjoying the ride. Which I certainly did.
We rode down the island , about 12-15 miles long where we had booked rooms at the Youth Hostel - they never even questioned our mature ways and demeanour.
The country side is charming, lovely thatched farmhouses and cottages, beautiful small white washed churches with red tiled roofs, the other residents clearly know that if you ride a red Mercian with a red chain you deserve respect , and t
Last but not least the beer slips down a treat - it ain't Bitter but after 65 miles it hits the spot. The accommodation is good, thatched cottages with small but comfortable rooms; no square dancing tonight.
Off to the "big" local town tonight for some fish and perhaps a beer!
And if any of you were to consider two wheeling in this part of the world I would suggest starting at Hamburg, and going North. Lovely, absolutely lovely!!! And at this time of year the toads and towns are blissfully quiet - till we arrived!
Tuesday, 2 September 2014
Post Happy Town
Sorry we were unconnectable yesterday - oh, no-one noticed?
We had a great night in the beautiful town of Glückstadt - went for a meal at Der Kleine Heidrich where I had a wonderful local pork dish with all the triimings and we had several samples of the local beer (and schnapps!).
The morning brought us a great breakfast in the dining room which was more like an antique shop with catering (the food was not antique) - and if anyone is ever to pass through this wonderful town, Bei der Museum is the place to stay.
We were as sad to leave as Happy Town (which is the town's name in English) was and we were therefore treated to head wind and rain for most of the day. We followed the river Elbe (sometimes it seemed that we were in it!). Visited the war memorial in Kuden on top of a hill (there really are some hills on the route- most days we "climb" around 300 metres so pancakes it ain't anymore - more like waffles !). It is strange - and moving - to see the names of the German soldiers killed in Russia, Belgium, France, and of cause in their homeland 1940-45. Yes they were collowing the wrong guy, but that still happens and they probably did not have a choice. On through Meldon, rather pretty, to the sea side resort of Büsum - "Disneyland" on the coast. Lovely accomodation, great breakfast , actually fantastic breakfast, but the town- nah, give it a wide berth.
But today we woke up to sunny skies and after the super breakfast we headed out - into a stiff north-easterly which was exactly where we were going - I hope that Cornwall does not have similar meteorological features today when Stephen and Guy sets off - towards John O'Groats. But they do it supported i.e. No luggage, whereas we do our journey the hard-man way: the first 60 miles today into a stiff headwind dragging the usual 14 kilos (no that is not the weight of my companion, he has lost some but not that much!).
We passed through several pretty towns - Garding with its lovely Medieval church richly decorated with murals, Husum a beautiful town centre around the (dry ) harbour. I made up for this with Flensburger Beer and meatballs, D. Had coffee and beer - but he is a solicitor, as you know!.
At approx 20 miles before our destination the goddesses of wind - no not THAT wind even though we were riding along Das Deutsche Kohlstrasse - the German Cabbage Route where I would have presumed tail wind to be guranteed -anyway whoever sorts out winds messed it up and we ALMOST had a tailwind for the last 20 miles. We arrived in a rather charming small sea resort, Dagebüll, where we are staying at a rather posh hotel. Our room is big eneough for a game of squash or handball, and Darren had hoped that the Swedish (why Swedish I said?) female hand ball team could come and practice but it appears that they are not in town. So it is just us and our dirty lycra and I guess our "pulling " power may be limited.
We are now only 30 miles from the Danish border (that is 8400 pedal strokes for me! On top of the 236.600 done so far - and the knees are tip-top - it is all down to lubrication - and determination!)
We will spend tomorrow on the Danish (hurrah - Home is the cylist, home from the hill and the sailor .... Now how was it that went that poem by the well known Danish author of Treasure Island, Robert Louis Svendsen), the Danish island of Rømø, and the last night in the very pictoreque town of Ribe. I have booked us cells in the old jail house which has been turned into a hotel. My son Jonathan will be joining us coming down from Aalborg where he is working in a boat yard. I look forwardvto his company.
I bet you can't wait to hear more - oh, you can? Well I'm off for a beer then - the first since the last one I had!!
We had a great night in the beautiful town of Glückstadt - went for a meal at Der Kleine Heidrich where I had a wonderful local pork dish with all the triimings and we had several samples of the local beer (and schnapps!).
The morning brought us a great breakfast in the dining room which was more like an antique shop with catering (the food was not antique) - and if anyone is ever to pass through this wonderful town, Bei der Museum is the place to stay.
We were as sad to leave as Happy Town (which is the town's name in English) was and we were therefore treated to head wind and rain for most of the day. We followed the river Elbe (sometimes it seemed that we were in it!). Visited the war memorial in Kuden on top of a hill (there really are some hills on the route- most days we "climb" around 300 metres so pancakes it ain't anymore - more like waffles !). It is strange - and moving - to see the names of the German soldiers killed in Russia, Belgium, France, and of cause in their homeland 1940-45. Yes they were collowing the wrong guy, but that still happens and they probably did not have a choice. On through Meldon, rather pretty, to the sea side resort of Büsum - "Disneyland" on the coast. Lovely accomodation, great breakfast , actually fantastic breakfast, but the town- nah, give it a wide berth.
But today we woke up to sunny skies and after the super breakfast we headed out - into a stiff north-easterly which was exactly where we were going - I hope that Cornwall does not have similar meteorological features today when Stephen and Guy sets off - towards John O'Groats. But they do it supported i.e. No luggage, whereas we do our journey the hard-man way: the first 60 miles today into a stiff headwind dragging the usual 14 kilos (no that is not the weight of my companion, he has lost some but not that much!).
We passed through several pretty towns - Garding with its lovely Medieval church richly decorated with murals, Husum a beautiful town centre around the (dry ) harbour. I made up for this with Flensburger Beer and meatballs, D. Had coffee and beer - but he is a solicitor, as you know!.
At approx 20 miles before our destination the goddesses of wind - no not THAT wind even though we were riding along Das Deutsche Kohlstrasse - the German Cabbage Route where I would have presumed tail wind to be guranteed -anyway whoever sorts out winds messed it up and we ALMOST had a tailwind for the last 20 miles. We arrived in a rather charming small sea resort, Dagebüll, where we are staying at a rather posh hotel. Our room is big eneough for a game of squash or handball, and Darren had hoped that the Swedish (why Swedish I said?) female hand ball team could come and practice but it appears that they are not in town. So it is just us and our dirty lycra and I guess our "pulling " power may be limited.
We are now only 30 miles from the Danish border (that is 8400 pedal strokes for me! On top of the 236.600 done so far - and the knees are tip-top - it is all down to lubrication - and determination!)
We will spend tomorrow on the Danish (hurrah - Home is the cylist, home from the hill and the sailor .... Now how was it that went that poem by the well known Danish author of Treasure Island, Robert Louis Svendsen), the Danish island of Rømø, and the last night in the very pictoreque town of Ribe. I have booked us cells in the old jail house which has been turned into a hotel. My son Jonathan will be joining us coming down from Aalborg where he is working in a boat yard. I look forwardvto his company.
I bet you can't wait to hear more - oh, you can? Well I'm off for a beer then - the first since the last one I had!!
Sunday, 31 August 2014
Hamburgers no more
A great day has been had. Yesterday my brand new red chain and standard colour sprocket took us 10 miles west of Hamburg where we spent the night. This morning after a large breakfast we decided , for the first time, to retrace our steps and revisit Hamburg as we had not paid sufficient hommage to this great Hansa city yesterday. We therefore cycled back to Reperbahn, St. Pauli, Altona, the lakes etc.it was a grey but pleasant morning and the city certainly possessed qualities other than the Queen of the Night sevices that we have not sampled ( any other suggestion is based on vicious and untrue rumours). The fact that a big fair took place did not dampen our enthusiasm. After refreshing ourselves on malted beverages we re-re-traced our steps westwards along the Elbe. And what a lovely cycle path it was - sunshine and strolling families and lots of coffee bars. Blue skies, a slight head wind, grey skies, very very black skies and torrential downpours (a real in-out weather day but we staid out!). As we had progressed so unexceptionally fast till now ( so you noticed that too? Thank you for mentioning it, we are too proud to do so) we had booked accommodation in Glücksburg after only 60-odd miles (never knowingly under 60 is our motto!). And we now have to report that not till now have we come across a lovelier city/town. A beautiful harbour, a lovely town square from where the streets radiate in a stellar fashion, an absolutely superb accommodation - an exquisite appartment with all facilities AND a very attractive hostess (who unfortunately recides elsewhere!). We spent the evening at Der Kleine Heinrick, a beautiful restaurant in a timber framed house with great food and beer and schnaps - and need I add very attentive waitresses!
So far the route from Hamburg have by far exceeded all previous expectations - the scenery is far less austere and "sheepy" and the villages are charming. If I was to do this trip again I would send my bike to Hamburg and cycle from thereand forget about the first section - sorry, Willem - but we never met up anyway. Perhaps visit Leer but only because the restaurant there was so great!. Oh, maybe I did forget to menyton that Glückstadt was founded by King Christian IV , king of Denmark and Schelswieg, Holstein, Lauenburg etc so this is OLD DANISH LAND!!!! And if it wasn't for count Bismarck and all his Kraut'ish followers it would still be part of Denmark ( as wouldb b..... England!!).. But anyway, it is a lovely part of the world and the local population even greets you when you cycle past them - please note that we are NEVER (knowingly) overtaken!
And did I mention that we have cleared about 700 miles and have only another 3-400 to do. Hardly worth getting up for!
And now we will all sing "there'll always be a Denmark..... " ( same tune!!!!)
So far the route from Hamburg have by far exceeded all previous expectations - the scenery is far less austere and "sheepy" and the villages are charming. If I was to do this trip again I would send my bike to Hamburg and cycle from thereand forget about the first section - sorry, Willem - but we never met up anyway. Perhaps visit Leer but only because the restaurant there was so great!. Oh, maybe I did forget to menyton that Glückstadt was founded by King Christian IV , king of Denmark and Schelswieg, Holstein, Lauenburg etc so this is OLD DANISH LAND!!!! And if it wasn't for count Bismarck and all his Kraut'ish followers it would still be part of Denmark ( as wouldb b..... England!!).. But anyway, it is a lovely part of the world and the local population even greets you when you cycle past them - please note that we are NEVER (knowingly) overtaken!
And did I mention that we have cleared about 700 miles and have only another 3-400 to do. Hardly worth getting up for!
And now we will all sing "there'll always be a Denmark..... " ( same tune!!!!)
Saturday, 30 August 2014
How the Fixie got gefixed or not all Franks are Schlech(t) or how the dike knocked out my teeth
Again you are reading a two-day blog (it is great that in English "you" can indicate one, two or even more, so it may at least appear that I have a large following)
Well let's start withe yesterday. We left the great hotel in Eckwarden (did I say that it was as much Dover Sole (schollenfillet) as you could eat for 11€? Unfortunately the great Köstrizer lager and dark beer were charged by the glass. But what a meal!
We had a bit of raIn over the night but the weather was dry and the wind initially right smack.....- as usual. But this was the day where we were heading in all directions (and for once this was what we were meant to do) and we soon had a great tailwind and did 18-19 mph until a gravel road left me with a flat rear wheel (later the same day ditto front wheel so Gatorskin may not be the tyre to choose for this). As I removed the rear wheel I thought I would recheck and clean my sprocket and to my great surprise where I used to have 16 teeth I now had 10!! And this was inspite of me not putting sugar in my drinks! As some of you will know that the smaller number of teeth on the rear sprocket the faster the rear wheel turns - so it wasn't the tail wind after all but my low tooth sprocket (and a lighter bike as well that had increased my speed!!? ) Well unfortunately not and what had happened was that when cranking up the steep dikes I had heard a few crunching noises which i thought nothing off at the time - so the dikes got me teeth!! Bugger - well perhaps not the right word but the right sentiment.
And we were miles from bikeshops, so we pedaled on, as the two clowns in charge of New Labour some years ago said, with a "softly,softly approach". No trackstands, no sudden accelerations, no hill climbs (as if that was ever my forte) etc. and I had to disappoint the scores of jubilant cycling enthusiasts lining the roads begging me to show off my skills "Nein, keine Track Stehen heute, Leute"
We passed through Bremerhaven (no help), Cuxhaven (great bike shop, closed for some obscure holiday - the Lederhosen inauguration day?), Ottendorf (very pretty, not many of those places encountered!)and made it via Germany's Mildenhall, Hemmoor, to a charming little village, Osten on the other side of the canal. And here lies another story- the notel was a picture of blissful German delight and right behind it there was a metal contraption reaching approx 50 metres into the air and underneath it was suspended a kind of carriage. This is the "famous" 1909 Schwebefäahre i.e. a kind of a skilift carrying up to 100passengers at a time over a small stream. And why? For crying out loud every single villager had to be forced across the stream several times a day to make it financially viable! But it is still there to be seen and by some admired as well.
Anyway - the hotel was a delight with great food, beef and a charming young waitress. Mr Baker had a day of faste leaving me to enjoy the culinary delights.
Up early next morning (me to mend another puncture) and we headed off for Hamburg hoping for cyclic dentistry on my damaged teeth. The weather drizzly but the wind gentle. A bike shop in Stade tried to help but gave up, never having seen a fixie. In Hamburg I hailed a policeman dressed like an Imperial Stormtrooper (a big football match required some police attention) and he kindly directed me towards Cyclefactory in Altona where my second cyclists' guardian angel (remember I had one in Glasgow last year) called Frank inspected the damage and with great confidence daid that he could fix it! So whilst I imbibed a couple of ruby ales with some forcaccio he did miracles and when I returned the Mercian looked like a blushing young girl wearing a red chain and a new sprocket.
So if any of you are ever in need of emergency repairs east of Harwich and north of Cessinatico I know where you should go! And off we went to face new adventures!!
Well let's start withe yesterday. We left the great hotel in Eckwarden (did I say that it was as much Dover Sole (schollenfillet) as you could eat for 11€? Unfortunately the great Köstrizer lager and dark beer were charged by the glass. But what a meal!
We had a bit of raIn over the night but the weather was dry and the wind initially right smack.....- as usual. But this was the day where we were heading in all directions (and for once this was what we were meant to do) and we soon had a great tailwind and did 18-19 mph until a gravel road left me with a flat rear wheel (later the same day ditto front wheel so Gatorskin may not be the tyre to choose for this). As I removed the rear wheel I thought I would recheck and clean my sprocket and to my great surprise where I used to have 16 teeth I now had 10!! And this was inspite of me not putting sugar in my drinks! As some of you will know that the smaller number of teeth on the rear sprocket the faster the rear wheel turns - so it wasn't the tail wind after all but my low tooth sprocket (and a lighter bike as well that had increased my speed!!? ) Well unfortunately not and what had happened was that when cranking up the steep dikes I had heard a few crunching noises which i thought nothing off at the time - so the dikes got me teeth!! Bugger - well perhaps not the right word but the right sentiment.
And we were miles from bikeshops, so we pedaled on, as the two clowns in charge of New Labour some years ago said, with a "softly,softly approach". No trackstands, no sudden accelerations, no hill climbs (as if that was ever my forte) etc. and I had to disappoint the scores of jubilant cycling enthusiasts lining the roads begging me to show off my skills "Nein, keine Track Stehen heute, Leute"
We passed through Bremerhaven (no help), Cuxhaven (great bike shop, closed for some obscure holiday - the Lederhosen inauguration day?), Ottendorf (very pretty, not many of those places encountered!)and made it via Germany's Mildenhall, Hemmoor, to a charming little village, Osten on the other side of the canal. And here lies another story- the notel was a picture of blissful German delight and right behind it there was a metal contraption reaching approx 50 metres into the air and underneath it was suspended a kind of carriage. This is the "famous" 1909 Schwebefäahre i.e. a kind of a skilift carrying up to 100passengers at a time over a small stream. And why? For crying out loud every single villager had to be forced across the stream several times a day to make it financially viable! But it is still there to be seen and by some admired as well.
Anyway - the hotel was a delight with great food, beef and a charming young waitress. Mr Baker had a day of faste leaving me to enjoy the culinary delights.
Up early next morning (me to mend another puncture) and we headed off for Hamburg hoping for cyclic dentistry on my damaged teeth. The weather drizzly but the wind gentle. A bike shop in Stade tried to help but gave up, never having seen a fixie. In Hamburg I hailed a policeman dressed like an Imperial Stormtrooper (a big football match required some police attention) and he kindly directed me towards Cyclefactory in Altona where my second cyclists' guardian angel (remember I had one in Glasgow last year) called Frank inspected the damage and with great confidence daid that he could fix it! So whilst I imbibed a couple of ruby ales with some forcaccio he did miracles and when I returned the Mercian looked like a blushing young girl wearing a red chain and a new sprocket.
So if any of you are ever in need of emergency repairs east of Harwich and north of Cessinatico I know where you should go! And off we went to face new adventures!!
Thursday, 28 August 2014
Lessons learned so far
It is difficult to plan for a trip like this not knowing weather , road surfaces etc.
But in General (top to bottom and below)
Wear a cap under the helmet - protects again sun and rain
Water proof breathable jacket
Bring two lycra tops, wash one every evening. Don't cycle in a cotton top - too heavy and will never dry. Bring a strap to tie to it to the pannier to dry during the day if necessary.
Cotswold has a universal shower and washing soap.
Base layer on wet days (merino or mesh)
Bring a gillet
Bibshorts x 2, as with the top wash one every day. I do not find two sets of shorts at a time necessary but it depends on the quality, mine are the Endura shorts from the club. Excellent.
Comfy saddle. Mine is a Charge Spoon - excellent. Last year I used a Rolls, not as good.
Chamois creme!
Merino sox two pairs, dries very quickly and are great regardless of sun or rain
SPD shoes - you need to be able to walk in towns where the layout has been modified by the RAF. Some of them seem in need of re-designing. Where is the RAF when we need them? I also use a metatarsal bar insole which spreads the load over the forefoot.
Overshoes.
Waterproof secure panniers. Mr Baker's have gone flying a few times on bumpy roads. mine, Ortlieb , have not.
Double bar tape. Even good European roads have uneven sections and your hands get sore.
Comfortable gloves plus spare set.
Mount a bell, walkers, dogs, cyclists etc need warning as we in general are much faster than they are.
Good quality Tyres - Darren's are Schwalbe Marathon plus, mine are Gatorskin (23 mm).
At least two inner tubes and repair kit, lots of cable ties, lubricant and gloves - the chain gets very dirty!
One very light lock.
Lights fore and aft.
Very little clothing for non cycling use. This is not a fashion parade!
A selection of bars, nuts and raisins to eat en route.
I use electrolyte tablets in the water (one bottle only) - no sugar, would like to have some teeth left when I reach home.
If you use specs bring a second set (just ask Mr B!)
Sunblock (SP20 last all day) lip balm, vaseline.
Don't even consider wearing a rucksack when you cycle all day!!
Big breakfast, lunch less important , perhaps a roll or two in the bag. Big evening meal with a moderate amount of the local, in general excellent, malted refreshment juices.
Garmin AND maps - using my Garmin as a mapper leaves it out of juice by lunch time.
A list of accommodation - book ahead as early as possible!
Plenty of charger cables for camera, phone, Garmin, IPod etc ( my favourite tune is There'll always be an England belted out on my small portable speakers which I bet will soon climb up the German charts!)
Speak a few words of the appropriate language and enjoy the ride!
But in General (top to bottom and below)
Wear a cap under the helmet - protects again sun and rain
Water proof breathable jacket
Bring two lycra tops, wash one every evening. Don't cycle in a cotton top - too heavy and will never dry. Bring a strap to tie to it to the pannier to dry during the day if necessary.
Cotswold has a universal shower and washing soap.
Base layer on wet days (merino or mesh)
Bring a gillet
Bibshorts x 2, as with the top wash one every day. I do not find two sets of shorts at a time necessary but it depends on the quality, mine are the Endura shorts from the club. Excellent.
Comfy saddle. Mine is a Charge Spoon - excellent. Last year I used a Rolls, not as good.
Chamois creme!
Merino sox two pairs, dries very quickly and are great regardless of sun or rain
SPD shoes - you need to be able to walk in towns where the layout has been modified by the RAF. Some of them seem in need of re-designing. Where is the RAF when we need them? I also use a metatarsal bar insole which spreads the load over the forefoot.
Overshoes.
Waterproof secure panniers. Mr Baker's have gone flying a few times on bumpy roads. mine, Ortlieb , have not.
Double bar tape. Even good European roads have uneven sections and your hands get sore.
Comfortable gloves plus spare set.
Mount a bell, walkers, dogs, cyclists etc need warning as we in general are much faster than they are.
Good quality Tyres - Darren's are Schwalbe Marathon plus, mine are Gatorskin (23 mm).
At least two inner tubes and repair kit, lots of cable ties, lubricant and gloves - the chain gets very dirty!
One very light lock.
Lights fore and aft.
Very little clothing for non cycling use. This is not a fashion parade!
A selection of bars, nuts and raisins to eat en route.
I use electrolyte tablets in the water (one bottle only) - no sugar, would like to have some teeth left when I reach home.
If you use specs bring a second set (just ask Mr B!)
Sunblock (SP20 last all day) lip balm, vaseline.
Don't even consider wearing a rucksack when you cycle all day!!
Big breakfast, lunch less important , perhaps a roll or two in the bag. Big evening meal with a moderate amount of the local, in general excellent, malted refreshment juices.
Garmin AND maps - using my Garmin as a mapper leaves it out of juice by lunch time.
A list of accommodation - book ahead as early as possible!
Plenty of charger cables for camera, phone, Garmin, IPod etc ( my favourite tune is There'll always be an England belted out on my small portable speakers which I bet will soon climb up the German charts!)
Speak a few words of the appropriate language and enjoy the ride!
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