Epiblog

The first day if relaxation after a very good nights sleep.
A leisurely breakfast with several coffees, eggs, bacon, toast , muesli fruit etc
Followed by - a leisurely bikeride of only 50 miles in the hills around Cesinatico. The bike almost flies without  the panniers.
Robin did note that my rear wheel was a bit wonky yesterday- and guess what? Two further spoke nipples broke yesterday so my favourite surgical procedure was performed this afternoon (i am getting very good and fast at it!!) before I had a fantastic massage in the spa. No nipples broken but it was close!!
Tomorrow Robin is cycling up to meet Yvette in Bologna (he has been fantastic company and without his navigation skills we would probably have ended up in Lapland) whereas I will stick around, ride to San Morino, eat some more and allow my body to recover.

So what have we learned on this trip?
Don't trust the weather or historic data- wherever you go expect a headwind.
Don't plan 100+ mile distances per day unless you are supported i.e. Carry nothing (apart from spare nipple spokes!!). Cycle tracks are not always tarmac'ed - some are, some are gravel, some pepples and some boulders dropped from a passing spaceship! Bring very very little that ways more than a credit card!
Don't expect France to be open for business - any business.
Don't expect the Swiss to smile- if they do they may have stepped on something pointed and a puncture will soon happen! And they will charge you - a lot!!
Shit happens - mechanical breakdowns, getting lost, inclement weather. But that's life!!
If you have a dream/plan/wish- get off your backside and do it for tomorrow may be too late. What makes God smile? He smiles when he hears about our plans. So carry them out before he hears and surprise him!
People are generally friendly and helpful.
Europe has places of outstanding beauty and there is no better way to enjoy them than from a bike. If you want to look or take pictures - just stop pedalling (i'm told this may not be the case if there is a tailwind but I have little experience in these matters!)
European cuisine is wonderful and local food is generally fantastic.
Beer is good for you (in moderation),
Wine ditto
Good company ditto - but here no moderation applies.
All in a all it has been a great adventure- thanks to our families for allowing us to do it, to strangers for helping us out and being kind, and to you for bearing up with my musing (yes, reader- I mean you!)
Ciao!!!!

The last day / a draft

this I believe is day 12 but I am loosing track of where and when - why was lost a long time ago!
Our charming hostess in Divinis as I believe the restaurant/hotel was called made it up just before us - the local guests who arrived as we were leaving yesterday evening (including one in complete cowboy outfit) kept her up till 0200. Well supported by beer and cigarettes (I did tell her that smoking gives her wrinkles and even played the Ray Gelato song Fuma for her!!) - now where was I? - yes she made it just in time to serve us a rather rudimentary breakfast before we headed off - and she very likely headed back to bed. For us it was into the wind - the only difference between the French and the Italian wind is the temperature - the Italian one is warm - but still right smack in our noses.
We plodded on through very uninspiring scenery - flat as a pancake, dry as a Dodo (were they really dry?), each village looking the same as the last. We followed the river Po - absolutely massive - wide as an extremely extremely large elephant's bottom (miles!) - by the way we have seen and crossed  some rivers on our trip - the Thames, the Somme, the Mosel, the Rhine, the Meuse and tomorrow we will cross the Rubicon - now where are my dice? The Po led us to Ferrare - pretty but not jaw dropping- when you have seen a few dozen cathedrals you become a bit blasé about them.
We then headed for Ravenna but some snotty little river threw a spanner in the works / the ferry meant to carry us across it broke down and we had to do a 10kgravel tracked detour into the b.... wind blowing along the b... Snotty river. We did see loads of Flamingos but that was really not why we started on this journey. And we also geard some nightingales. - now that is lovely (thanks, Peter).
So we pushed on and on and on (hands up if you are still reading this!) and suddenly (if that word can ever be used about a painstakingly slow process into the wind ( and we are talking about big branches and trees swaying) the sign Cessinatico indicated that we had reached the end of our journey. We did 130 miles the last day (for those of you in metric that is >200 km into the wind - well headwind is the same in imperial and metric!) and the applause when we entered the dining room at the Riz did make us feel slightly emotional about the whole thing.
We did it, we b.... well did it 1000+ miles of wind and rain and very very good company - just a shame that Paul could not stay with us till the end.
Now for a good nights sleep....…

Day 11 of soon not so many more!

Another sunny hot day in Paradise - plenty of apples but no snakes!
We left the beautiful lake d'Iseo and followed a twisting route to lake Garda - also lovely! A quick sandwich and rehydration (no this is work - no alcohol!) and on south wards.
The landscape is completely different - gone are the snowcapped mountains, the vineyards are still there but now wheat fields, barley etc.pretty little villages eith massive churches and VERY FEW ICECREAM PARLOURS!!!!! I thought that in Italy even the statues on the squares sold ice cream but no!!!
We passed through the rather beautiful Brescia ( no we've never heard of it either but it was lovely).
After 90+ miles in temp at around 30* we called it a day at another lovely little hotel about 20 miles north of Ferrare. In spite of having emptied 6 bottles of water we broke our solemn pledge of no alcohol before the pre-dinner drinks and had some lovely cool local beers on arrival- double malt beer , lovely!!
The lycra is all washed - ready for a shower and then the table calls!
Our hostess greated us with another local brew on the terrasse and then (with the help of mama and mama grande) served a fantastic meal with proscuiotto, soup ang gnocchi with freshly made foccaccio with melted cheese, local beef followed by sorbet and coffee. Now how are we going to get up those stairs?
Cesinatico is "only" 120 miles away snd we may make it tomorrow!! Pray for northerly or westerly winds - right now they are ..... Yes, south easterly!!! Buna Notte!!

Day number God-only-Knows - Como to Lago d'Iseo

The morning ritual is always the same - up at 0700 local time, check that all washed gear is dry, generous breakfast at 0730 and aim to set off at 0800.
Como did not want us to leave - within 1 km if the lovely towncentre an 8-14% climb started and it went in for 4 miles. After that rocky paths up and down, intermittently tarmac'ed paths next to rivers or lakes. There were hundreds if not thousands of Italians out on their bikes - some in the Sunday groups in club outfits but far more families of all ages rolling along the lanes. Lovely to see!
We normally stop for a coffee after 20-25 miles and for lunch after 40ish miles. Today we just had a sandwich and several Oranginas after yet another climb. It is sunny and very hot work - we empty 4-6 waterbottles each during the day.
The scenery is still lovely slthough slighly less mountaineous - you won't hear me complain sbout that, one thing that is noticeable is how clean it us (yes this is Italy but the same applies to France snd Switzerland ) - there are no empty bottles, fast food package etc along the lanes. How come all the pigs are concentrated in the UK? No, don't blame Danish bacon!
We have arrived to lake Iseo - home of the fabulous Riva yachts which are built next to our rather posh hotel, Cocca Hotsl, Royal Thai Spa - have great expectations re food and entertainment. As our windows overlook the lake there is certainly plenty of hydro entertainment!! And in case you wonder - all cycling gear was washed before we are - ready for tomorrow!!

Day 8 - Airolo to Como - south is not always down , nor is down(?)

We left the magnificent hotel Forni in Areolo just below St. Gotthardt and headed down the valley - both dressed for a long cold descent. Disappointingly the descent was over rather quickly and we were soon faced with further climbs - by the end of the day  almost 900 metres up and 1800 down over a 90 mile trek.
However we are in absolutely unbelieveably beautiful countryside with lovely friendly people. There is a dramatic difference between the northern Swiss (athe women are a  bit like Angela Merkel - even the waitresses will happily run you over if you are in their way! And the cyclists!!! If you get a nod from them it is due to a speed bump!!) and the Italian side of Switzerland we have just been through ( lots of ciaos and bon giornos (sorry about the spelling) - the rather (sometimes even extremely ) pretty girls in the cafes try their hardest to please the customers and the food is great).
So we are having a great time! Arrived to lovely Como late afternoon and thanks to Robin's navigation skills quickly found the rather elegant hotel. Across the street there is a Catalan restaurant where we have just finished a fantastic  meal - the owner (male!!) recommended that we tried two kinds of Argentinian and one kind of Australian meat - argentina won no contest!! Plus lovely vegetables and puddings, Spanish red and Balarian digestif! Fortunately we only had a 10 metres walk home! A great day with beautiful weather,
Tomorrow we are heading east slong the lakes. We are on target for Cesinatico arrival Tuesday orcWednesday. Bon noite !!l

shock news - breakdown of the Coalition. Beer sales plummet. Waitresses fear for their livelyhood

The governments in London, Paris, Berne, Berlin and Rome expressed their shock and sorrow at the overnight collapse of the coalition.
 Brian Cookson of the ICU were too emotional to talk to the press but issued a brief statement suggesting that international cycling is in turmoil.
The facts are that after 7 days one of the coalition partners, the Hon P Callow (PC) has left the three party coalition to return to his constituency. He was regarded as the ascending star of the team although others pointed out that he came down pretty fast too.
The coalition which was set up as the brain (?) child of the Hon S Sidevind will now continue as a duo with the Hon Robin Youngs and Mr S. Mr Youngs will continue in charge of the overall strategic planning, setting a course for the daily targets etc. Mr S is responsible for aggriculture (espec barley, wheat, hops and grape produce). Mr C's brief, very fast transport on land will be shared between the remaining partners possibly at a slightly slower pace
Mr Sidevind points out that the agreement from the start was a fixed-term 7 day arrangement and that it has shown that PR works in practice. Unfortunately PC was more a  First Past The Post man but it is not ruled out that he will return to the team in the future. Mr C will from his constituency remain a spokesman for Home Office, small businesses incorporating Family Affairs.
All partners regret the break-up but look forward to a new Coalition set up in the near future.we feel that there is a public demand and we aim to please (ourselves as well!!).
Now to other news-
we left Luzerne after a great breakfast served by a very attractive young lady (did I mention that the girl in the coffee shop yesterday evening received top marks from all attending?) - and followed the lake southwards. It was another sunny beautiful morning with little wind. The scenery was stunning - azure blue lake, lush green foliage and snow capped mountains. We crossed the lake on a small ferry (crewed by a nice Sri Lankan who possibly had lost his way but not his charm). Paul then turned north to head back towards Basel and home wheras Robin and I turned towards St Gotthardt - it was sad to see Paul ride off - he has been great company  - whenever we could keep up with him!!!
After a frugal lunch we started the climb - 10 miles or so at a gradient of 5-8 occasionally 16%. The weather dry, sunny 20*. Near The top we were treated to a headwind but it did not slow us down much (at our speed it was difficult to tell if it did or did not!). Due to snow the pass is still closed to all traffic and we had to take a train through the tunnel just below Andermatt.
We are now set up in a comfy hotel and tomorrow the grand descend into Italy awaits us!

What a difference a day makes!!

I have probably used that gitle before after some muserable day beyween Lands End and John O'G - but it describes my sentiments!!
We left communist-era inspired Basel at 0800 and quickly found the route (robin and his garmin is the combination to go for!)
We soon were outside the city in absolutely lovely lush scenery , pretty small villages, and more and more hills. Before lunch we had climbed almost 1000 metres at 12-16% - all stayed on the pedals - no headwind!!
We had a great Italian lunch in small village (in contrast to France where cafes or restaurants are rare commodities, in Switzerland a village consits of two or more houses of which at least one is in the catering trade). Onwards following the river upstream (there is a colossal amount of water in this contry - the rivers are mostly near the top of their banks and the flow is rather frightening - but hydroelectric power? Not much evidence of that!)
Arrived at our destination Luzerne on the lake in the late afternoon.  an absolutely beautiful city surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Lots of cafes and restaurants. We are staying in a delightful old hotel on the top of a steep hill - but we are used to that (hills!).
Tomorrow is the Italian border - and sadly goodbye to Paul who is heading home. He has been a super companion and will be much missed! Until we go off on our next adventure (i hope Nicola is not reading this!)
It has been a fantastic day with excellent cycling, great ups and downs finished off with roasted suckling pig - washed down with a special brau. We will sleep well tonight!
Hope you all remembered to vote- we did! As if it makes a hoot of a difference with our ridiculous FPTP voting system!!