Cheltenham to Pitlochry day 1-2
I took the train to Cheltenham - no problem with a carry-on bike but if you bring a standard one - not easy. You can only book a bike ticket if you have your own ticket. And once you’ve booked your own you may realise that there are no bike spaces left (only 3-4 per train!!!). No wonder we are leaving Europe -  they will probably help us pack.
Sunday morning Robin and I headed off towards Ledbury, Leominster and Ludlow - after a flat start (and yes I did get a pinch puncture on a cattle grid we hit the hills - or they hit us!! It was as challenging as Devon and Cornwall. A bit of advice - do not donate blood the day before you go on a long ride! It may save you some weight but it removes a couple of cylinders from your engine!!!
Anyway on a diet of cake and biscuits and sandwiches (no beer - the second mistake!!). we made it to Bishop’s Castle somewhere on the top of a very steep hill!!! Had a lovely room, great food (3 courses were wolfed down accompanied by a couple of 🍺. Followed by a tendition of Silent Night!!
Today we continued through hilly Shropshire but it all became more civilised in Chesshire - gentle inclines - very few declines to my recollection - still sunshine but as always when I’m in these parts a headwind!! Great pub lunch on route after coffees in lovely Shrewsbury. And after some rather congested peri- Mancurisn roads (probsly all hoing to the Man City parade) we made it yto our abode for the night. In total 250 km done with 2300 metres up - and down!!
But in all - spectacular scenery, lovrly matket towns - espec Ludlow was beautiful. If you haven’t been here - come - England at its best!!! But they do have pot holes here as well

Epiblog and Last day Bergamo to Lake Como

We had a leisurely start on the Saturday - the last ride of the trip. After yesterday's

 marathon event my body certainly felt that "enough is enough" and let us just go easy ( the tune that ran through my mind was Jackson Browne's "Running on Empty")
So again the usual ritual preparing for the ride and a large breakfast. Thereafter we all set off towards the lake  - a 30 km or so on mainly busy roads.. And suddenly -after a long descent there she was. Shimmering the sunlight from the (as always so far) blue sky., steep banks with  pretty villages clinging to the mountain sides. We stopped for coffee in Lecco and then continued to Varenna from where we took the ferry to Bellaggio . We were accompanied on the small ferry by a pristine MGA fresh from the Mille Miglia  classic car race - yes there was a time when cars were as pretty as bicycles.
Once on shore the road led us "up, up and away" ( but no beautiful balloon to assist) to Vignola with its chapel decorated with bikes. The rest of the group continued inland but I was suffering from conjunctivitis (sunlight, road dust, hay fever) and decided to return down  to the lake for a large ice cream and a boat ride along the lake visiting multiple little picturesque villages Long the shore. It was by now late afternoon, the sun was setting, the church bells chiming and calling for evening mass and the  world ( including my legs and back side) appeared to be at peace.
What a lovely way  finish to approx. 2000 km of riding from the bottom to the top of Italy. A beautiful country populated by lovely people. Yes there had been lots of ups and downs (about 20 km of ups I think , but not counted them yet)  but it had been a fantastic experience.  But in 40* heat? If anyone is mad enough to consider doing this may I suggest late April or May, take 3 (or more) weeks and do stop to smell the roses, taste the regional food and wine. The "slow food " movement was pioneered in Italy. Slow food and  slow cycling will certainly be more enjoyable.
On Saturday evening  we had a lovely meal in a beautiful lakeside restaurant in Torno, watching the lights flicker from the opposite shore as darkness set on the lake.
It was a steaming hot evening and after dinner the van was for the  final time loaded with all our goods I decided to sleep on the balcony overlooking the lake hoping for a gentle cool breeze. Three hours later thunder awoke me, followed by torrential rain, lightning and gusts of gale force winds! At least it cleared the air - and also the balcony: towels went flying lake-wards whilst the mattress and I sought shelter indoors. The weather forecast for the whole of next week is rain and lightning so it seems as if "someone" thinks we have done enough and suggests that we can go home.

The Road goes ever on and on
Out from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the road has gone,
Let others follow it who can!
Let them a journey new begin,
But I at last with weary feet
Will turn towards the lighted inn,
My evening-rest and sleep to meet.

(JRR Tolkien, The Return of the King)

Day 13 Modena to Bergamo

Modena (emphasis on the first syllable "Mo") was steaming hot and we could only manage to walk to the Pizzeria across the street - but fortunately the pizzi were excellent and the beer cold.
This morning we had a few deserters - Jack turned 40 so he and his brother Simon and Neil (of balloon and refugee-saviour fame) went on a non-bike adventure leaving a gang of seven (the Magnificent Seven or the Seven Dwarfs?) to head off on the longest day of them all - 214 km to Bergamo - fortunately the terrain is flat, unfortunately the temp. was 38-40 and yes there was  headwind all the way. We worked part of the route as a "chain-gang" constantly rotating to keep the speed as high as we could (around 30 km or 20 mph) - the one in front has to exert 30% or so more energy than the next one. But we had to stop for rehydration every hour or so - even icecold water in the bottles on the bike got so warm within 20 minutes that it was tempting to put a tea-bag in the bottle as well. And pouring the bottle over me to cool down was like having a warm shower. The first part of the day was pleasant - riding along little vineyards on small quiet roads, but the last bit was heavy traffic and not scenic. We stopped for a photo at the Bianchi bike factory although not all shared Michael's enthusiasm.

Towards the end of the ride D who shall otherwise remain anonymous sprinted off to get to a drinking hole. If he had been one of the dwarves he would most certainly have been known as Thirsty - and he had a rendezvous with another fairytale character  - probably Peroniocchio.
The rest of us arrived after 10 hours en route. After the usual preparations we convened in a steak house near the hotel where to  my great fortune  the first fillet of beef was too well done so they brought me a second, rare. As I managed to eat most of the first one whilst waiting for the second I think I had my protein ration for the day - but I must apologise  for the impact on Global Warming - two steaks on a day is not on (however the only beef I've had for the last two weeks so mYbe I am forgiven?).
Tomorrow 40-50 km to Lake Como, visit the chapel dedicated to cyclists , pack the bikes into the van  and prepare for the trip home. Almost there!!!!!

Day 11 and 12 - we're almost there

Now where was I? Italy! Montalcino!! We had a delicious meal in what we thought was a hole-in-the-wall but was actually rather upmarket. We brought the place down to earth when they placed a bottle of Grappa and a bottle of  Limoncello  on our table - on the house! Phew - we certainly needed coffee and ice cream after that.
Next morning  I met up with the three B St Eds lads (2 Nunns and one Thomas all touring Tuscanny on bikes - lovely region!!)  who by chance were staying in our hotel before I headed off past Siena, via the Chianti wine road - very hilly! ( only coffee, water and ice cream kept me going), lunch in Florence (eat what the natives eat is one of my mottos- I had spicy green Thai chicken) and further north to Pistoia - a rather charming affluent city with lovely cobbled streets filled with restaurants - and us! Although I inadvertently took a 20 km detour I still beat the rush! And please - don't believe I'm fast - I'm just better organized!!
This morning we crossed the Appenines. - no that is not a local tribe that we offended but a range of mountains that someone carelessly has positioned right across our path! It was hairpin loops galore ( no whisky)  - plenty of warm water as even the coolest bottle reached boiling point in minutes). By 1300hrs we had climbed well above 1300 metres when we (Michael and me) treated ourselves to a rather substantial lunch with a view over the valley. 3 courses , water, wine and coffee for 12 Euros!
By then the heat was uncomfortable but we sped/limped on to Modena where we will spend the night.
Tomorrow is 125 miles of flat riding - we hope for a bit of cloud cover but chances are slim. The weather forecast for Como on Saturday is thunder and showers. Well, should I hope or shouldn't I?

Day 9 and 10 - from your RRoving reporter now in Montalcino

I am slowly loosing the plot. Each day blends in with the previous and the next and there is not much to destinguish between them- they all contain hills, long mileages and heat.
Last night we stayed in a charming farm house in Orvieto. I thought that it might be familiar as Helene and I attended a weddding there 20 years ago. As the bride and groom were Spanish it was probably in the similarly named Oviedo in Spain so nothing seemed familiar to me. Anyway - we had a lovely stay at the farm house, relaexed in the pool had a good meal in town, and this morning a few adventurous souls went ballooning with Neil who feels naked if he is not wearing one - or at least in close proximity to one. Me - in spite of being 6'5" I am not desperately keen on testing the pull of Mother Earth on a wicker basket at a height  from which terminal velocity can easily be reached. So I pretended to be otherwise engaged (no pretence required).
This morning I (again ) decided to hit the road early - yesterday we tried as a group but "early" was more like "siesta time" (Mad Dogs and Brits!). So this morning I headed off on my own at 0715 heading for beautiful Toscana. It was hilly - very hilly , and in spite of the early start soon became hot.
The scenery was lovely - Cypress trees in rows ( they used to be planted a graves but now every Tuscan farm house has at least a few), Olive trees and vineyards - them vines like hill sides. I like wine but could do without the hills and there were lots of them
I reached our destination Montalcino mid afternoon - 110 km and 2317 metres of vertical ascent.
Upon my arrival in town I met three young mates of Jonathan's from Bury St Eds (the Nunn brothers and a friend) who are exploring northern Italy by bike. They do carry their possessions on the bikes but a daily distance of 40-50 miles seem much more sensible than our ludicrous goals of 65-130 miles per day.
Montalcino is not only a very pretty town but also the home of the famous Brunello de Montalcino - a wine so close to perfection that it seems pointless to look any further. So a bit of wine tasting is on the cards -AFTER my protein shake, clothes washing etc etc.

Casino, Sora (much) and Rieti

Today is day 8 and we have reached Rieti - il Centro della Italia - and a rather pretty yown in Lazzio, north of Rome. We are past the halfway mark - almost 600 miles done and > 11.000 metres of climbing .
It has all become a routine - but not necessarily an easy one. Up 0630, breakfast at 0700 - plenty of fibres and coffee; a few rolls with ham/cheese tucked into the rear jersey pockets (they can hold a multitude of necessities - and unnecessities!). At the bacon hotel yesterday we were told that for security reasons we were not allowed to take rolls from the breakfast table with us for the elevenses! We? Cyclists? Pilgrims? Of course we stuffed our pockets - otherwise certain death would have been on the cards (instead of the uncertain type).
We headed off as a group - and alas therefore rather late start but we still made excellent progress until the town of Monte Casino (where amongst 10.000+ others Spike Milligan fought in 1943) . From there a very long and very very hot climb followed. After rehydration (water and sugar) at the top a quick descent whilst dark clouds gathered. Unfortunately Sam skidded

on the last corner and left a bit of skin on the tarmac. So finally the large amounts of dressings and paddings that I have been carrying found a grateful recipient. And West Suffolk Hospital Charity will hopefully receive a donation (www.justgiving.com Soren Sjolin). As soon as the wounds were dressed  a torrential, almost biblical, rain and hail storm left us seeking shelter - I must admit that I had been praying for rain but this was too much and too cold!. We huddled until the van could pick us up for an 8 mile lift to the hotel in Sora where we enjoyed a fantastic meal, Sam  had a further change of dressings whilst awaiting the morrow which he did find slightly "Sora" (sorry!!).
Today we were blessed wih cooler climate (25*C or so) but a fierce headwind - you can't (tail?) wind'em all!
An uneventful ride ro Rieti to "lick" our wounds. You see - we ache all over from the toes to the necks and some have developed infections/irritations in areas that shall not be described. I am relatively lucky: a sore neck and a numb left ring and little finger (ulnar nerve palsy from resting on the handlebars - even though I constantly change position on (not in!) the bars. And in the evening I can fall asleep at the dinner table but once in bed am too tired to fall asleep. If I was paid to do this I would refuse!

Day 5 and 6 (Agropoli and Caserta)

We are the Pilgrims , Master , we shall go
Always a little further. It may be
Beyond the last blue mountain barred with snow.
Across that angry or that glimmering sea
White on a throne, or guarded in a cave
There lives a prophet who can understand
Why men were born: but surely we are brave
Who take  the Golden Road to Samarkand

Thanks to Peter Darcy for introducing me to this - although Samarkand is not (to my knowledge ) on our route!
Yesterday (Thursday?) I started early pre-breakfast accompanied by Michael -  off at 0715 and by coffee-and-cornetto (croissant)-time we had done 20 miles.  By 1100 we had done 900 metres of ascent- on a croissant and a banana! We celebrated with a big ice cream , had lunch on a lovely piazza where the bigger group caught up with us. The rest of the day was hard work - hills heat and hard effort required. We had beer and lots of buffalo mozzarella at Jack and Anna's place just outside Agropoli, our destination for the day 87 miles or so., almost 2000 metres of hills. I was TIRED!!
Today two more "pilgrims" (Guy and Mark) had seen the (morning) light and we headed off at 0815 after collazione (breakfast). The route led us past Paestum with the magnificent Greek temple ruins from 500BC. They certainly built to last in those days!! Onwards  through Salerno - not a pretty sight but it is actually quite entertaining winding your way on a bike through the heavy traffic. The Garmin tells us where to go but the Italian drivers are not incorporated in the plan so a plan B,C,D etc must be created on the move. The process is a bit like surgery: you start off with a plan and all the appropriate  equipment But sometimes things turn out differently and alternatives need to be considered - quickly! So the alternatives been thought through  at the team briefing - so you don't end up with an "Italian Job" ( no offence to Italian surgeons!).
We followed the beautiful Amalfi coast ( probably best enjoyed from the sea) until cutting across some rather big lumps of rock/ mountains to get to the northern side  - the reward at the top of the climb (temp> 35*C ) was a great lunch with Tuborg beer and several Espressos. By then Mark had had so many punctures that he had to be rescued by the van (M earns a living importing (car) tires !). From the top a very bumpy (British quality tarmac?) descent (past the town Angri!) and a further 30 miles or so past Mount Vesuvius to our rather impressive hotel,  Golden Tulip. Now why does that make me think of bacon?
Tomorrow we expect to pass the half-way mark!
"We are the Pilgrims, Master, we shall go always a little further....."