Wednesday 3 September 2014

Probably the best country in the world

We left Dagebüll this morning in glorious sunshine after  another magnificent breakfast - and we really load up in the morning as we often skip lunch.
The wind was again mainly against us but the delights of Denmark were ahead so we sped on. The German country side was pleasant, not as many sheep as in Holland (and therefore fewer of those wretched gates you have to open and close), still masses of windturbines (i really do not see what the fuss is about: they are silent and aesthetically not displeasing. The only problem may be that they cost so much to build that the only one who makes money for the first 2030 hears is the  manufacturer.
We passed through Niebühl where I had expected a statue of Carsten Niebühl who in 16-something as the first Westerner visited and described Arabia Felix. But there was none. But they had two bike shops!
And suddenly it was there, the Danish Frontier across which no German hand should set his foot(?) - but as usual there was nothing apart from some signs and supermarkets to mark it (72 cans of Danish lager for £15!!! No,  we had no room!).
Suddenly the skies were even bluer and we hd a tailwind. We sped to Tønder were the Chieftains, Runtig, James Early had just been festivaling. We sped to the main street where we had a single bottle of  local brewery, Kongens Bryghus, conveniently situated in Copenhagen only 200 miles away. We also admired the statue of the local night watch man with his cat-o-9tails, allegedly designed to scare off loose women and thieves. Must've worked, we saw none - and we looked pretty hard!
We detoured via Møgel Tønder where the second son to the Queen has his residence - a very pretty small town with an incredible amount of cobbles - ideal for a short Paris Roubaix time trial! - and an incredibly pretty church , richly decorated and not like the typical village church.
The wind had now changed to side and it was rather strong. However after 15 miles we turned a 90* corner and followed the 6 mile dike westwards to the island of Rømø , running before the wind at a speed of 22-24 mph - after a while the high cadence and the lack of free wheel does make it rather "claustrophobic" with almost an urge to get off the pedals but as there would be no chance of getting back on it was a matter of persevering and enjoying the ride. Which I certainly did.
We rode down the island , about 12-15 miles long where we had booked rooms at the Youth Hostel - they never even questioned our mature ways and demeanour.
The country side is charming, lovely thatched farmhouses and cottages, beautiful small white washed churches with red tiled roofs, the other residents clearly know that if you ride a red Mercian with a red chain you deserve respect , and t
Last but not least the beer slips down a treat -  it ain't  Bitter but after 65 miles it hits the spot. The accommodation is good, thatched  cottages with small but comfortable rooms; no square dancing tonight.
Off to the  "big" local town tonight for some fish and perhaps a beer!
And  if any of you were to consider two wheeling in this part of the world I would suggest starting at Hamburg, and going North. Lovely, absolutely lovely!!! And at this time of year the toads and towns are blissfully quiet - till we arrived!












2 comments:

  1. Sounds lovely. Worth visiting for the "quiet toads" too
    Bon voyage from Annecy

    ReplyDelete
  2. You should send a link to the Danish tourist board Soren - you sell your country wonderfully - I really want to go to Denmark now!

    ReplyDelete