Epiblog and Last day Bergamo to Lake Como

We had a leisurely start on the Saturday - the last ride of the trip. After yesterday's

 marathon event my body certainly felt that "enough is enough" and let us just go easy ( the tune that ran through my mind was Jackson Browne's "Running on Empty")
So again the usual ritual preparing for the ride and a large breakfast. Thereafter we all set off towards the lake  - a 30 km or so on mainly busy roads.. And suddenly -after a long descent there she was. Shimmering the sunlight from the (as always so far) blue sky., steep banks with  pretty villages clinging to the mountain sides. We stopped for coffee in Lecco and then continued to Varenna from where we took the ferry to Bellaggio . We were accompanied on the small ferry by a pristine MGA fresh from the Mille Miglia  classic car race - yes there was a time when cars were as pretty as bicycles.
Once on shore the road led us "up, up and away" ( but no beautiful balloon to assist) to Vignola with its chapel decorated with bikes. The rest of the group continued inland but I was suffering from conjunctivitis (sunlight, road dust, hay fever) and decided to return down  to the lake for a large ice cream and a boat ride along the lake visiting multiple little picturesque villages Long the shore. It was by now late afternoon, the sun was setting, the church bells chiming and calling for evening mass and the  world ( including my legs and back side) appeared to be at peace.
What a lovely way  finish to approx. 2000 km of riding from the bottom to the top of Italy. A beautiful country populated by lovely people. Yes there had been lots of ups and downs (about 20 km of ups I think , but not counted them yet)  but it had been a fantastic experience.  But in 40* heat? If anyone is mad enough to consider doing this may I suggest late April or May, take 3 (or more) weeks and do stop to smell the roses, taste the regional food and wine. The "slow food " movement was pioneered in Italy. Slow food and  slow cycling will certainly be more enjoyable.
On Saturday evening  we had a lovely meal in a beautiful lakeside restaurant in Torno, watching the lights flicker from the opposite shore as darkness set on the lake.
It was a steaming hot evening and after dinner the van was for the  final time loaded with all our goods I decided to sleep on the balcony overlooking the lake hoping for a gentle cool breeze. Three hours later thunder awoke me, followed by torrential rain, lightning and gusts of gale force winds! At least it cleared the air - and also the balcony: towels went flying lake-wards whilst the mattress and I sought shelter indoors. The weather forecast for the whole of next week is rain and lightning so it seems as if "someone" thinks we have done enough and suggests that we can go home.

The Road goes ever on and on
Out from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the road has gone,
Let others follow it who can!
Let them a journey new begin,
But I at last with weary feet
Will turn towards the lighted inn,
My evening-rest and sleep to meet.

(JRR Tolkien, The Return of the King)

Day 13 Modena to Bergamo

Modena (emphasis on the first syllable "Mo") was steaming hot and we could only manage to walk to the Pizzeria across the street - but fortunately the pizzi were excellent and the beer cold.
This morning we had a few deserters - Jack turned 40 so he and his brother Simon and Neil (of balloon and refugee-saviour fame) went on a non-bike adventure leaving a gang of seven (the Magnificent Seven or the Seven Dwarfs?) to head off on the longest day of them all - 214 km to Bergamo - fortunately the terrain is flat, unfortunately the temp. was 38-40 and yes there was  headwind all the way. We worked part of the route as a "chain-gang" constantly rotating to keep the speed as high as we could (around 30 km or 20 mph) - the one in front has to exert 30% or so more energy than the next one. But we had to stop for rehydration every hour or so - even icecold water in the bottles on the bike got so warm within 20 minutes that it was tempting to put a tea-bag in the bottle as well. And pouring the bottle over me to cool down was like having a warm shower. The first part of the day was pleasant - riding along little vineyards on small quiet roads, but the last bit was heavy traffic and not scenic. We stopped for a photo at the Bianchi bike factory although not all shared Michael's enthusiasm.

Towards the end of the ride D who shall otherwise remain anonymous sprinted off to get to a drinking hole. If he had been one of the dwarves he would most certainly have been known as Thirsty - and he had a rendezvous with another fairytale character  - probably Peroniocchio.
The rest of us arrived after 10 hours en route. After the usual preparations we convened in a steak house near the hotel where to  my great fortune  the first fillet of beef was too well done so they brought me a second, rare. As I managed to eat most of the first one whilst waiting for the second I think I had my protein ration for the day - but I must apologise  for the impact on Global Warming - two steaks on a day is not on (however the only beef I've had for the last two weeks so mYbe I am forgiven?).
Tomorrow 40-50 km to Lake Como, visit the chapel dedicated to cyclists , pack the bikes into the van  and prepare for the trip home. Almost there!!!!!

Day 11 and 12 - we're almost there

Now where was I? Italy! Montalcino!! We had a delicious meal in what we thought was a hole-in-the-wall but was actually rather upmarket. We brought the place down to earth when they placed a bottle of Grappa and a bottle of  Limoncello  on our table - on the house! Phew - we certainly needed coffee and ice cream after that.
Next morning  I met up with the three B St Eds lads (2 Nunns and one Thomas all touring Tuscanny on bikes - lovely region!!)  who by chance were staying in our hotel before I headed off past Siena, via the Chianti wine road - very hilly! ( only coffee, water and ice cream kept me going), lunch in Florence (eat what the natives eat is one of my mottos- I had spicy green Thai chicken) and further north to Pistoia - a rather charming affluent city with lovely cobbled streets filled with restaurants - and us! Although I inadvertently took a 20 km detour I still beat the rush! And please - don't believe I'm fast - I'm just better organized!!
This morning we crossed the Appenines. - no that is not a local tribe that we offended but a range of mountains that someone carelessly has positioned right across our path! It was hairpin loops galore ( no whisky)  - plenty of warm water as even the coolest bottle reached boiling point in minutes). By 1300hrs we had climbed well above 1300 metres when we (Michael and me) treated ourselves to a rather substantial lunch with a view over the valley. 3 courses , water, wine and coffee for 12 Euros!
By then the heat was uncomfortable but we sped/limped on to Modena where we will spend the night.
Tomorrow is 125 miles of flat riding - we hope for a bit of cloud cover but chances are slim. The weather forecast for Como on Saturday is thunder and showers. Well, should I hope or shouldn't I?

Day 9 and 10 - from your RRoving reporter now in Montalcino

I am slowly loosing the plot. Each day blends in with the previous and the next and there is not much to destinguish between them- they all contain hills, long mileages and heat.
Last night we stayed in a charming farm house in Orvieto. I thought that it might be familiar as Helene and I attended a weddding there 20 years ago. As the bride and groom were Spanish it was probably in the similarly named Oviedo in Spain so nothing seemed familiar to me. Anyway - we had a lovely stay at the farm house, relaexed in the pool had a good meal in town, and this morning a few adventurous souls went ballooning with Neil who feels naked if he is not wearing one - or at least in close proximity to one. Me - in spite of being 6'5" I am not desperately keen on testing the pull of Mother Earth on a wicker basket at a height  from which terminal velocity can easily be reached. So I pretended to be otherwise engaged (no pretence required).
This morning I (again ) decided to hit the road early - yesterday we tried as a group but "early" was more like "siesta time" (Mad Dogs and Brits!). So this morning I headed off on my own at 0715 heading for beautiful Toscana. It was hilly - very hilly , and in spite of the early start soon became hot.
The scenery was lovely - Cypress trees in rows ( they used to be planted a graves but now every Tuscan farm house has at least a few), Olive trees and vineyards - them vines like hill sides. I like wine but could do without the hills and there were lots of them
I reached our destination Montalcino mid afternoon - 110 km and 2317 metres of vertical ascent.
Upon my arrival in town I met three young mates of Jonathan's from Bury St Eds (the Nunn brothers and a friend) who are exploring northern Italy by bike. They do carry their possessions on the bikes but a daily distance of 40-50 miles seem much more sensible than our ludicrous goals of 65-130 miles per day.
Montalcino is not only a very pretty town but also the home of the famous Brunello de Montalcino - a wine so close to perfection that it seems pointless to look any further. So a bit of wine tasting is on the cards -AFTER my protein shake, clothes washing etc etc.

Casino, Sora (much) and Rieti

Today is day 8 and we have reached Rieti - il Centro della Italia - and a rather pretty yown in Lazzio, north of Rome. We are past the halfway mark - almost 600 miles done and > 11.000 metres of climbing .
It has all become a routine - but not necessarily an easy one. Up 0630, breakfast at 0700 - plenty of fibres and coffee; a few rolls with ham/cheese tucked into the rear jersey pockets (they can hold a multitude of necessities - and unnecessities!). At the bacon hotel yesterday we were told that for security reasons we were not allowed to take rolls from the breakfast table with us for the elevenses! We? Cyclists? Pilgrims? Of course we stuffed our pockets - otherwise certain death would have been on the cards (instead of the uncertain type).
We headed off as a group - and alas therefore rather late start but we still made excellent progress until the town of Monte Casino (where amongst 10.000+ others Spike Milligan fought in 1943) . From there a very long and very very hot climb followed. After rehydration (water and sugar) at the top a quick descent whilst dark clouds gathered. Unfortunately Sam skidded

on the last corner and left a bit of skin on the tarmac. So finally the large amounts of dressings and paddings that I have been carrying found a grateful recipient. And West Suffolk Hospital Charity will hopefully receive a donation (www.justgiving.com Soren Sjolin). As soon as the wounds were dressed  a torrential, almost biblical, rain and hail storm left us seeking shelter - I must admit that I had been praying for rain but this was too much and too cold!. We huddled until the van could pick us up for an 8 mile lift to the hotel in Sora where we enjoyed a fantastic meal, Sam  had a further change of dressings whilst awaiting the morrow which he did find slightly "Sora" (sorry!!).
Today we were blessed wih cooler climate (25*C or so) but a fierce headwind - you can't (tail?) wind'em all!
An uneventful ride ro Rieti to "lick" our wounds. You see - we ache all over from the toes to the necks and some have developed infections/irritations in areas that shall not be described. I am relatively lucky: a sore neck and a numb left ring and little finger (ulnar nerve palsy from resting on the handlebars - even though I constantly change position on (not in!) the bars. And in the evening I can fall asleep at the dinner table but once in bed am too tired to fall asleep. If I was paid to do this I would refuse!

Day 5 and 6 (Agropoli and Caserta)

We are the Pilgrims , Master , we shall go
Always a little further. It may be
Beyond the last blue mountain barred with snow.
Across that angry or that glimmering sea
White on a throne, or guarded in a cave
There lives a prophet who can understand
Why men were born: but surely we are brave
Who take  the Golden Road to Samarkand

Thanks to Peter Darcy for introducing me to this - although Samarkand is not (to my knowledge ) on our route!
Yesterday (Thursday?) I started early pre-breakfast accompanied by Michael -  off at 0715 and by coffee-and-cornetto (croissant)-time we had done 20 miles.  By 1100 we had done 900 metres of ascent- on a croissant and a banana! We celebrated with a big ice cream , had lunch on a lovely piazza where the bigger group caught up with us. The rest of the day was hard work - hills heat and hard effort required. We had beer and lots of buffalo mozzarella at Jack and Anna's place just outside Agropoli, our destination for the day 87 miles or so., almost 2000 metres of hills. I was TIRED!!
Today two more "pilgrims" (Guy and Mark) had seen the (morning) light and we headed off at 0815 after collazione (breakfast). The route led us past Paestum with the magnificent Greek temple ruins from 500BC. They certainly built to last in those days!! Onwards  through Salerno - not a pretty sight but it is actually quite entertaining winding your way on a bike through the heavy traffic. The Garmin tells us where to go but the Italian drivers are not incorporated in the plan so a plan B,C,D etc must be created on the move. The process is a bit like surgery: you start off with a plan and all the appropriate  equipment But sometimes things turn out differently and alternatives need to be considered - quickly! So the alternatives been thought through  at the team briefing - so you don't end up with an "Italian Job" ( no offence to Italian surgeons!).
We followed the beautiful Amalfi coast ( probably best enjoyed from the sea) until cutting across some rather big lumps of rock/ mountains to get to the northern side  - the reward at the top of the climb (temp> 35*C ) was a great lunch with Tuborg beer and several Espressos. By then Mark had had so many punctures that he had to be rescued by the van (M earns a living importing (car) tires !). From the top a very bumpy (British quality tarmac?) descent (past the town Angri!) and a further 30 miles or so past Mount Vesuvius to our rather impressive hotel,  Golden Tulip. Now why does that make me think of bacon?
Tomorrow we expect to pass the half-way mark!
"We are the Pilgrims, Master, we shall go always a little further....."

Day 4 - Tonnara to Maratea

Fantastic breakfast buffet to start another sunny day - and a bit of grey fluff in the sky is a welcome sight. It does not amount to much but at this latitude all shade is welcome.
I decided to head off early i.e. at 0800. It is great cycling in a group but there are drawbacks! Starting in the "morning": Cats would be easy to organise! "We aim for an 0830 start. Be ready!!". At 0845 some are considering packing, others still in the shower. As you may know, I am a surgeon - I like my list to start on time and I like a plan, like to to make the appropriate incisions  , sort out the problem and get on to the next case. Any delay in the morning will scupper the whole day. So I decided to head out ahead of the pack at 0800 - wearing different bibs (not to sneak out unnoticed but by now 400+ kilometres can be felt where the body connects with the bike!). The other advantage about an early star is so elegantly expressed by Noel Coward "Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun". So gtting some miles or even kilometres in before noon is a bonus. And another thing - it is actually quite nice to enjoy the scenery on your own (ie on my own).  Most my working days are spent talking and however much I enjoy talking to patients it is great to have some solitude. So the bike and I were just steadily rolling along at a comfortable pace (17-20 mph) with the legs doing their business whilst the head was enjoying the scenery, the blue sea, blue skies, rolling dry landscape  up and down hills, and for once I listened  to music - only one earphone in the ear closest to the kerb so all traffic sounds were loud and clear. The track that propelled me on was Gianna Nannini "Io che non vivo Senza te" . To which you will probably say Who?what? Well most of you will know Dusty Springfield and her hit "You don't have to say you love me". But did you know that it is an Italian song and amongst others Gianni Nannini has a great version. Check it out!
By 1300 hrs before the thermometer reached 40* I had done around 60 miles - and soon arrived at the hotel before (!!)the support   vehicle. When it arrived Sam and Neil (N is down with a virus and therefore was carted along) had a great lunch. Neil by the way amongst his many other activities helps rehouse and look after refugees in Thessoliniki - far more efficiently and humane than the official agencies (Charity:  Family to Family - check it out on Facebook). But therein  lies another story. Now off to the pool! Ciao.

Day one and two revisited

It would appear that in spite of my literary skills the blog ended up in cyberspace. Maybe it does not like prose and photos - or is it the people on the photos that fail to meet the quality requirements?
Anyway we left Palermo yesterday morning ( the night before we had celebrated Sam's 23 - I seem to recall that I was that age at some point but maybe I'm mistaken)  with our bellies full (and the jerseyrear pockets  stuffed with nutrition) and the spirits high. Various photo shoots in the harbour to prove that we had been there - and were now no going.
Once we were outside the big city the roads were scenic, quiet and generally covered with a smooth black material which I seem to recall a Scotsman invented a while back. The Highway Agency really could learn a thing or two about road maintenance.
We stopped for pasta in a pretty coastal town and made it to our 1st destination in time for the usual kit washing (yes kit),  followed by showering, ice cream eating and restaurant hunting. And ok'ish pizza in beautiful sunset setting was  downed and then bed. Well before that a bit of surgery required my attention- my bottom bracket ( for the non-cyclists: something on a bike)  was squeaking and Darren performed a lifesaving  procedure - squeak gone!
This morning's ride out was delayed by Michaels front wheel  dropping into a grill in the road and buckling(wheel not grill). Fortunately Sam and the van was nearby and a new wheel was procured.
Our ride today followed the coast to Messina with a rather nasty sting in the tail - a 500 metres ( that'sa lot  of feet) climb in 32* heat. I had pressed ahead solo in the morning as the others set a somewhat challenging speed and I expected them to rein  me in ( they are between 5 and 39 years younger - Justin excluded!!) but 125 kms later I rolled into Messina to receive the yellow jersey. The others arrived 2 hours later but I bet they'd  had some long pit stops.
So so far 260 km done and  more than 3000 metres of climbing. I think we yet again have earned a pizza or two.
Back home our yellow Lab Woody made it to 16 1/2 but was failing rapidly, he is now chasing squirrels with his brother Skruff in the big hunting grounds in the sky. We will miss him - and so will the two black labs that kept him young for so long.

Day 3 - Messina to Tonnara

We are getting into the routine now - food, padding and "nappy rash cream", load the van on off we go. We left Sicily (soundtrack: Sicilia you're breaking my heart) a 40 minute ferry journey and we are on the "toe" of Italy. The weather as always (??) glorious sunshine. Again following the windy coastal road with fishing boats far out and early summer swimmers/ sun worshippers. After 10 miles the hairpin loops were on us - 10 miles of steady - sometimes slightly unsteady - climbing. For me it is a matter of just following my own rhythm and disregard the whipper snappers racing ahead. Keeping an eye on the heart rate monitor is advisable!! Coffee and sugar at the top. Then a beautiful fast (40'ish mph) descent over 6-8 miles followed by another b.... Climb of same height and length. At the top a charming cafe were the food was free (!!) if accompanied by drinks (free and non-alcoholic as another long race to the bottom (getting a bit sore by the way) followed.
The scenery is pleasant - a bit run-down as it is the poorest part of Italy and the drivers are courteous - the fact that we are in rather professional matching Italian blue outfits may help. A sad sight is the (mostly) young girls looking for customers along the main roads mainly close to towns but also occasionally in open countryside. What a sad sad way of making their existence.

The day finished with a rather strong - but warm - head wind over the last 30 miles. Our hotel is right on the beach - I had an early evening swim - lovely salty warm water.
Tomorrow's ride will be slightly shorter which I will believe when I see it- today was hard work - rather harder than I cared for!!

Day 1 Palermo to St Stefano il Camastra

The last participants, Paul and Michael joined us yesterday evening (Sam's birthday , cake and lots of kisses from the waitresses at the evening's restaurant)

I cycled my bike back through the pre-breakfast empty corridors and  after a voluminous breakfast - which as always involved preparing the on-the-road snacks  - we were on the road by 9"(ish).

Once we had heft Palermo we progressed along a lovely deserted coastal road - in places with perfect tarmac of a quality never encountered in the UK.

Sam had driven the van to our destination and then headed back by bike and met us for lunch halfway. Pasta and gallons of water at a lovely seaside place. We reach

the destination of the day by 1600 hrs after 112 km involving 820 metres of cllimbing -  still a lot left to do! The charming hotel/N&B soon looked as if washing day had arrived - we headed out for icecream(s) and pizza. The day was finished with Darren and I taking my bottom bracket apart to get rid of a squak. I believe the operation was a succes and the patient will be on the road againtoday!

Ciclitalia 2017
We're off!
The magnificent (???) Seven headed off to Palermo yesterday to be reunited with our bikes and luggage which Mark Dykes had already carted here via a hockey tournament in Verona.
The rest of the gang will arrive tonight making us 12 in total (some connotations!)
We're lodging in a grand Hotel in the centre of Palermo - reminiscent of the setting of the 60's movie The Leopard (Burt Lancaster and the gorgeous Claudia Cardinale) - at a time it was very grand but the beauty has faded slightly ("sic transit gloria mundis" applies to hotels - and the rest of us).
The bikes were dislodged from the van, assembled and for safety taken to our rooms; mine on the 4th floor is so far down a corridor that I cycled there dragging the luggage - fortunately traffic was only light at midnight (3 blind corners!) and in spite of a gigantic Sicilian pizza and a large beer I made it safely  to my room!
As seen below the bike is now safely parked next to me - and don't worry - I did check that the lace curtain was clean before I leant my precious against it !
The day will now be spent on foot( feet, surely? ) exploring Palermo's cathedrals and markets.
Not a thought about the election chaos back home - will there be another election by the time we get home? Maybe we should have one every week? Although our present PM seems to have engineered her own downfall (sic transit - am I repeating myself?) I am pleased that our excellent local MP did well.
Anyway - after an excellent breakfast with great coffee I explored Palermo - as much as 30*C allowed! Il Duomo di Mon Reale was magnificent. Certainly worth the bus ride into the almost unknown. After that the local churches and cathedral paled somewhat!
So whilst I explored the spiritual side of Palermo my companions stumbled over a beer festival -

But did they stumble before or after? We may never know! Anyway regardless of vicious accusations I have kept to a strict diet ( coffee, acqua and ice cream) - even here I keep to the Dove's opening hours! But the night is young!! And tomorrow the "fun"starts!
Ciao