Thursday 4 September 2014

The end is nigh - and what an end!

A short cycling day - only about 35 miles but let's start at the beginning.
Yesterday evening took me to the Kro (ie the inn) in Havneby on Rømø. Calling it a "by"/ town is a bit of an exaggeration but it had what keeps a cyclist going : good food (fried Dover Sole with new potatoes and prasley and melted butter : absolutely phantasyic!), good beer brewd for the pub itself - I first had an excellent Liquorice Stout followed by "the Jubilee Ale of the Rømø Lass" featuring the inkeeper'ess on the label, all served by the lovely Ragnhild who effortless mastered three languages, a busy restaurant and kept a smile on her pretty face (probably thinking of her soon to start gap year adventures before starting studying bio-sciences - no lifetime waitressing there!).
We woke up to a misty morning without a wind. Post breakfast we loaded up, and so did the wind, and by the time we reached the 10 kilometer dike all flags were stretched out and the flagpoles looked like fishbones. The tail wind from yesterday which hd helped us to go at 22
-24 mph now only allowed us around 14 - 15 mph which we could keep up thanks to a very short chain-gang of which Team Sky would be envious - "we know exactly where you went wrong - poor technique and no panniers!!!.
We jeaded north (the wind fortunately did not!) , visited some lovely parish churches - espec.the one at Brøns was an absolute delight with its murals
showing a certain a certain George and his dragon wife- did he really win?

We also saw a memorial to 20 or so men killed in WW1 (" dying for a cause which was not theirs" ) - this part of Denmark was lost to the Germans in the 1860s thanks to a certain Prussian Herr Bismarck, and was not returned to Denmark until 1920 after a certain war where the Germans this time came second. So these poor farm boys had been conscripted to the German army. And how many are still being killed for causes that are not their own. I hope that you do not sleep well at night, Mr Blair.
Onwards to the jewell in the crown, the oldest town in Scandinavia, the home of a most magnificent cathedral (started around year 800) , the prettiest small city in Europe (that is official!) and twinned with Ely (apart from the Ely Cathedral not very pretty)  : Ribe (pronounced Reeebe). Hundreds of picture perfect 17-19th Century houses, cobbled streets, a small harbour (although 10 miles from the sea) and the aforementioned heavenly Cathdral.
After a great lunch with loads of Herring and a single beer from the local brewhouse, I checked into the prison where Jonathan and I will spend the night in cell 6 (i have checked  the door can be opened from both sides) . My travelling companion (the solicitor) is petrified of sleeping in a prison (something in his past I wonder??) and will reside elsewhere (in an old leper colony?).
I visited a "curiosity-type" wine/beer/coffee/tea/sweets shop where the till looked as if it only took Viking currency. It took me 30 minutes to buy a couple of beers even though I was the only customer as the owner and I got talking, and talking and talking. A shame that he does not open until 1430 tomorrow (very civilized working hours 1430-1730) as I would love to go back.
The afternoon was spent on the Cathedral square listening to an outdoor brass concert featuring Richard Srauss and the local composer, Rud Langaard, and enjoying a small beverage.
A table has been booked for tonight at one of the towns many excellent eateries overlooking the river and I very much expect a great finale prior to the last wee ride to the ferry tomorrow.

1 comment:

  1. Your prose is so descriptive that we are almost there with you tasting those fish and that homebrew. Can you lead a Wheelers Group there next year ?....sounds lovely and just the sort of thing cyclotourists would love to see.
    Hamburg heading north it is then!
    Enjoy the last stages of your adventure and well done against all that headwind. Where next?

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